Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black Watch Review
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black is an openworked watch from the Genevan-based watch brand. The widespread use of black tones imbues the model with a stealthy quality, allowing the indications and movement to shine. This watch has many attributes, including impressive execution and notable value. Angus Davies gets hands-on, evaluating the watch over a few days and sharing his thoughts.
The first skeleton watches
André Charles Caron (1697-1775) was a French watchmaker and is widely attributed with making the first skeleton watches. In the world of design, some creative-types talk of ‘form follows function’, however with a skeleton watch, the functional parts are very much the focal point of the composition.
Most people are innately inquisitive or, dare I say, nosey. Beyond a gleaming façade, there is often a compunction to look behind or underneath an object, eager to discover the truth. When visiting an upscale restaurant, it is difficult to resist sneaking a peek into the kitchen. After all, there is a small part of everyone that wants to catch the chef licking his fingers.
However, our natural curiosity is not always coloured with a sense of cynicism. For instance, there are few alpha-males who are able to walk past a Ferrari without gazing at the mechanical excellence sitting beneath the clear engine cover.
Skeleton watches are made for mechanically curious souls
A skeleton watch taps into the desire of many individuals who yearn to understand how components are made and how they interact with each other. For many years, a skeleton, or openworked, watch, was created by taking an existing movement and removing surplus material, ensuring the remaining parts were finished to an exalted standard.
The resultant appearance of an openworked watch delivers a becoming transparency, allowing the beholder to witness the movement’s various thought processes. By skeletonising the movement, no secret is left untold.
The problem with some skeleton watches ….
Historically, there have been problems with some skeleton watches. When the donor movement is being skeletonised, the extraneous material is removed with handsaws and files. It is imperative that the artisan is up to the task, ensuring the jewel beds, screws and areas near the gear train remain untouched. Should the watchmaker remove material from a critical area of the movement, the reliability of the timepiece will inevitably be compromised.
When a modern-day coachbuilder adapts a family hatchback into a convertible, they have to ensure the rigidity of the car is not compromised. Often, the specialist will reinforce the floorpan and windscreen surround to mitigate any flexing of the structure. In watchmaking, there have been occasions where an overzealous artisan has created an aesthetically attractive movement but sawed and filed virtually all of the mainplate’s strength away.
Another problem with making a skeleton watch using the traditional methods of openworking is that it is incredibly labour-intensive and, by default, expensive.
Only the finest practitioners of openworking should be trusted to make a skeleton watch using the aforementioned traditional techniques.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 (2018)
In 2018, Raymond Weil unveiled the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton, a two-handed watch with an openworked dial. The Genevan firm worked closely with Swiss movement specialist, Sellita, creating an interesting self-winding calibre that disclosed many parts usually hidden from view.
The movement was designed on a modern CAD system. The loads on each part of the Calibre RW1212 were carefully calculated to avoid any unwanted flex. The mainplate was optimally milled using a state-of-the-art CNC machine to tolerances measured in microns.
By adopting this approach, the rigidity of the movement wasn’t compromised by the overzealous use of handsaw or file. Due consideration was given to each part, ensuring the openings in the mainplate would have no adverse effect on the smooth and reliable operation of the watch.
Furthermore, by employing state-of-the-art technology, Raymond Weil democratised skeleton watch ownership, a horological genre previously the preserve of only the wealthy.
This model, housed in a 42 mm case, was offered in three variants. One version was presented in gleaming steel, paired with a rose gold PVD bezel, indexes and hands. The second version featured a steel case and bracelet ensemble, while the final option was dressed in black PVD with rose gold PVD indexes and hands.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black – evolution rather than revolution
At first glance, the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black looks identical to its predecessor, the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton. However, various subtle changes become apparent after a brief period of appraising the composition of the black-toned model.
The 42 mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD. Each facet of the case exhibits a matte, understated appearance. Unlike some of its forebears which were embellished with smatterings of rose gold PVD, this new model eschews any such brightwork. Interestingly, by forgoing the rose gold PVD, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black looks more refined.
Previously, the watch featured a large minute track adorned with prominent indexes. This new watch pares everything back, shunning the minute track and thereby revealing more of the mainplate. Despite the modern appearance of the black mainplate, it is beautifully embellished with traditional perlage.
On the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton, the rehaut was marked with a combination of long and short strokes. Considering the watch lacked a chronograph function, I never understood the reason for ¼-second markings on the rehaut. The new model is far more logical, combining double-digit Arabic numerals and strokes positioned 1-second apart. The result of this update is a cleaner, less-cluttered and notably legible track.
The Raymond Weil moniker and place of origin were previously positioned at 3 o’clock, however, they are now positioned on the rehaut. They prove neater and less obtrusive, but more importantly, the new design now grants sight of the keyless works, including the silver-toned setting lever jumper.
Many of the changes found on the new Raymond Weil Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton are low-key. However, this is not a criticism. Those brands that radically change the appearance of a watch leave owners of the former model feeling their once-cherished watch is now old hat. The fact is, the owner of a Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton can continue to wear their beloved timepiece with pride. Raymond Weil should be applauded for its evolutionary product strategy.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black – a watch with a view
Personally, I derive great pleasure looking at the dial of my own skeleton watch. It is fascinating to see minuscule components working collectively to impart the time. However, a plethora of parts, colours and shapes can sometimes result in a cluttered backdrop, inhibiting the wearer’s ability to read the time. Raymond Weil has been very clever because it has presented the skeletonised mainplate in an unobtrusive shade of black, allowing a select number of movement parts to take centre stage.
The silver-toned hour and minute hands are lined with luminescent fill. They prove highly legible but don’t steal all of the limelight at the expense of the movement. After all, the raison d’être for selecting a skeleton watch is to quaff each delicious part of the movement.
An openworked barrel sits below noon. The spokes on the barrel cover afford views of the mainspring in different states of tension. The keyless works is presented in a shade of silver and gleams resplendently against the sultry sections of the black mainplate. The honey-coloured wheels (gear train) and the silvery hour wheel are all exposed in their naked glory.
The balance is located at the base of the dial. It is held in position with a twin-spoke black bridge. This bridge is affixed at two points, proffering superior stability to a simple balance cock. By revealing the balance and the escapement, Raymond Weil invites the wearer to explore a fascinating world where the escape wheel rotates, the pallet lever nods and the balance wheel pirouettes backwards and forwards.
To the rear of the watch, the caseback is fitted with a pane of tinted sapphire crystal. Ordinarily, I would be frustrated by this detail as it restricts viewing the movement, however, in this instance, it makes much sense as it heightens the readability of the hour and minute hands as well as accentuating the appearance of the movement parts front of house.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black – look again
When the press loan arrived from Raymond Weil, I mistakenly thought it was hand-wound. However, closer inspection revealed that dwelling in the shadows, to the rear of the case, is an openworked oscillating weight. Presented in black it matches the mainplate and can only be spotted with prolonged examination. The benefit of this design is that the rotor barely interrupts the visual lightness of the skeletonised movement. However, the presence of an oscillating weight obviates the need for manual winding, making it ideal for daily wear.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black – closing thoughts
The new Raymond Weil Freelancer 42 mm Full Skeleton delivers several improvements over its predecessor, the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton. By eschewing the minute track and repositioning the branding from 3 o’clock to the rehaut, Raymond Weil has opened up the dial area, enhancing the views of the movement. Furthermore, the dial is now eminently legible.
By removing any trace of the rose gold PVD, found on the former model, the watch feels more discreet and more luxurious. The sumptuous nature of the watch extends to the perforated rubber strap which is paired with a steel folding clasp coated in black PVD. Each touch point elicits a nod of approval and the watch exhibits an impressive quality-price ratio.
The Genevan family firm has employed state-of-the-art technology to bring this watch to life. The mainplate is milled very precisely with due consideration to torsional strength. Moreover, by employing CNC for machining the mainplate, the cost of production is significantly lower when contrasted with many handmade skeleton watches. Indeed, Raymond Weil has democratised a genre of watch that for many years was prohibitively expensive, something that should appeal to all those astute horophiles who possess an inquisitive nature.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Black
- Reference: 2785 -BKR-20000
- Case: Stainless steel with black PVD coating; diameter 42 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystals to front and caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: RW1212 automatic movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Black rubber strap with stainless steel PVD folding clasp with black PVD coating and double push-security system
- Price: £2,895 including VAT (RRP as of 3.9.2023)