Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Skeleton RW1212 Watch Review (2021)
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Skeleton RW1212 is the latest openworked watch from the Genevan firm. It is equipped with a bronze bezel and crown which promise to acquire a becoming patina in years to come. Most importantly, this new watch delivers an impressive quality-price ratio, making skeleton watch ownership accessible to a wider audience.
Raymond Weil depuis 1976
Founded in 1976, Raymond Weil has enjoyed remarkable sales growth over the years. Its success can be attributed to its competitive products, encompassing eye-catching designs and watchmaking virtue. Moreover, the firm has gained a reputation for delivering incredible value.
Located on the outskirts of Geneva, Raymond Weil subscribes to the traditional établisseur model. This involves working with third-party specialists, submitting detailed drawings and obtaining components made to the Genevan firm’s precise requirements. Thereafter, the parts arrive at Raymond Weil’s production facility where assembly and, ultimately, regulation takes place.
Établisseur or Manufacture?
In recent times, watch buyers have been brainwashed into thinking that a Manufacture movement and in-house components are superior, however, this is not always the case. Indeed, some of the finest Maisons in existence were once établisseurs. For instance, a vintage Patek Philippe chronograph with a Lemania movement remains highly desirable despite its calibre being sourced from an external specialist.
Indeed, whether a company chooses to be an établisseur or a Manufacture is not in itself a reason for selection. Ultimately, it is the design, reliability and the quality-price ratio that determine whether a watch has merit or not.
Raymond Weil Calibre RW1212
Raymond Weil has openly disclosed that it has worked closely with movement specialist, Sellita, on numerous occasions. In particular, the luxury marque worked with Sellita when developing its skeleton movement, the automatic Calibre RW1212.
A few months ago, I borrowed a Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton watch equipped with the aforementioned movement. I remember at the time being struck by the model’s openworked movement and the sublime views afforded to the wearer. Skeleton watches have always had a tendency to be expensive, owing to the labour-intensive techniques used for their creation. However, Raymond Weil has cleverly used cutting-edge technology (CNC) to deliver an eye-catching model that is consistent with the firm’s reputation for value. Needless to say, this watch has gone on to prove a commercial success for the brand.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Skeleton RW1212 – a 42 mm case with a bronze bezel
Now, the Swiss watch company is back with its latest addition to the Freelancer collection, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Bezel Skeleton Watch. Once again, the watch measures 42 mm in diameter and has an openworked movement. However, this new model is equipped with a bronze bezel and crown, providing an interesting alternative to its older sibling. Bronze has become increasingly popular in recent years and is often selected for the becoming patina it acquires over time.
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Bezel Skeleton Watch is a welcome addition to the brand’s portfolio, upholding the strengths synonymous with the Genevan firm. Indeed, the design is top drawer and the impressive quality can be discerned with close examination and an inquisitive touch. Moreover, it is surprisingly affordable at £2,895 (RRP as of 3.9.2023).
Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Skeleton RW1212 – the brand’s press release
The new Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Bezel Skeleton Watch fuses historical and contemporary elements, providing a harmonious composition. The model’s openworked design indulges the wearer with views of moving parts at play, all collaborating together to precisely impart time. By employing cutting-edge technology, Raymond Weil has delivered a fascinating skeletonised vista, blessed with optimal torsional rigidity. Lastly, courtesy of its watchmaking know-how, Raymond Weil has democratised the skeleton watch genre while upholding the Maison’s unimpeachable reputation for quality.
Building on the success of its Freelancer Full Skeleton models, Raymond Weil is pleased to unveil a new variant of its popular model, this time endowed with a bronze bezel and crown.
Bronze, an alloy composed of copper and tin, is synonymous with historical statues. It is also used in architecture for structural and design elements. However, although the alloy is often associated with age-old structures, frequently acquiring a patina over time, in this instance, it is a constituent part of a contemporary timepiece.
Dating back to the 18th century, skeleton watches eschew conventional dials, thereby revealing numerous components typically hidden from view. They allow the inquisitive wearer to explore a fascinating world of gears, jewels, pinions and springs which are presented in flawless form.
Historically, skeleton watches were made by modifying a conventional timepiece, culminating in an ultra-fine latticework of metal. Traditionally, a highly skilled watchmaker would remove extraneous material using a combination of handsaws and files. This would endow the watch with a degree of transparency, albeit much expertise was required to achieve the best results. This approach continues to be employed today by some Maisons, however, it usually attracts a commensurately high sale price.
For the skeletonisation process to be successful, critical areas of the movement, such as jewel beds, screws and areas near the gear train, must remain untouched. Moreover, the rigidity of the movement mustn’t be compromised if it is to deliver precision and function reliably. Only the finest practitioners of skeletonisation are able to fulfil the aforementioned requirements, albeit such excellence proves very labour intensive.
With the advent of the Freelancer Full Skeleton models, Raymond Weil has democratised the ownership of skeleton or openworked watches. It worked closely with movement specialist, Sellita, to produce the Calibre RW1212. Designed on a modern CAD system, the forces acting on each part of the movement have been carefully calculated to avoid any unwanted flex. The mainplate has been precisely milled, using a state-of-the-art CNC machine, to tolerances measured in microns. The resultant movement is optimally designed, retaining material where needed and removing it where it is not essential. With the Calibre RW1212, there is no flex and parts move as intended, free of any encumbrance.
The 42mm stainless steel case is paired with a bronze bezel and crown. With the passage of time, these bronze parts will acquire a charming patina. The golden tones and luminescent treatment make the hour and minute hands stand out, augmenting legibility. The keyless works is presented in silvery tones, while the barrel cover is skeletonised, allowing the wearer to view the mainspring in various states of tension. Fine beam-like sections of the mainplate span the movement, facilitating views of the gear train, hour wheel and other components usually never seen.
The pinnacle of this model’s open design language is undoubtedly the balance wheel positioned at 6 o’clock. It is supported by a balance bridge featuring a twin-spoke design and retained with a screw at each end, enhancing stability. The wearer can view the escape wheel rotating, the pallet lever nodding and the balance wheel oscillating to and fro.
The Calibre RW1212 is automatic and features an openworked oscillating weight, affording wearer convenience without obstructing views of the movement. Each section of the movement is exquisitely finished, upholding fine watchmaking practise. An exhibition caseback affords rear views of the movement, again, contributing to the mechanical spectacle.
Raymond Weil has paired the watch with an antique brown strap, presented on a folding clasp. The Raymond Weil Freelancer Bronze Bezel Skeleton Watch features a historical alloy and celebrates a traditional artisanal technique, however, it looks resolutely modern and proves reassuringly affordable.