TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium WBP208B.BF0631 is a stylish divers’ watch that proves incredibly light and remarkably comfortable to wear. Having recently got hands-on with this timepiece, Angus Davies shares his observations and thoughts for the delectation of fellow horophiles.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300
In 2021, TAG Heuer released a new version of its highly popular Aquaracer. Shortly after it was launched, I had a spell of wearing a steel version of the watch. Measuring 43 mm in diameter and sporting a silver dial (Ref. WBP201C.BA0632), the watch proved highly impressive.
While I saw little wrong with its predecessor, the new model surpassed it in every way. TAG Heuer expended vast amounts of time appraising each element of the former Aquaracer and then enhanced it. The uplift in quality is palpable and consistent with the many improvements seen on other members of TAG Heuer’s portfolio. Indeed, in recent times, TAG Heuer has dressed its models in designer clothes and sent them for elocution lessons. Quite simply, they are the best they’ve ever been.
For example, returning to the Aquaracer Professional 300 of 2021, the horizontal ribs gracing the dial are now wider, providing more space to accommodate the dial text. And when it comes to the dial text, the new models have eschewed some words, endowing the display with a cleaner visage. The trapezoidal indexes of the former model have been supplanted by octagonal indexes, proffering notable legibility and style. The date display now sits at 6 o’clock, instead of 3 o’clock, culminating in a more symmetrical design.
The changes have also extended to the case execution which now encompasses sumptuous bevelled edges and a tasteful blend of fine-brushed and polished surfaces. Even the sound of the bezel turning was evaluated and subsequently refined by the brand. The list of changes proves very lengthy indeed. For an exhaustive inventory of modifications, I recommend reading my hands-on review of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Ref. WBP201C.BA0632.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Titanium models
With the advent of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300, the compendium of watches now includes 36mm models, some with gem-set indexes, and a couple of 43 mm timepieces housed in titanium. Interestingly, these latter watches, the Tribute to Ref. 844 and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium are both formed of the lightweight metal, but prove very different from each other.
The Tribute to Ref. 844 (WBP208C.FT6201), doffs its hat to the Ref. 844 divers’ watch, introduced in 1978. The flat black dial, ie sans ridges, features a red 24-hour scale, a period detail that was originally used as a conversion chart. Presented on a distinctive rubber strap, the model is limited to just 844 pieces. Its case is made of Grade 5 titanium, an alloy that can be polished to a brilliant gleam.
Meanwhile, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 WBP208B.BF0631 is presented in a sandblasted Grade 2 titanium case. This material is a pure form of the lightweight metal.
Both grades of titanium are strong, lightweight, corrosion-resistant, anti-magnetic and hypoallergenic, characteristics ideal for watchmaking.
For some time, I have expressed my intention to get hands-on with the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium and appraise its composition at close quarters. Recently, that day arrived and I was finally able to affix the Grade 2 titanium case and bracelet ensemble to my wrist. Having worn the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 in steel WBP201C.BA0632 and wholeheartedly falling for its masculine charms, I knew from the outset it would always be a tough act for the titanium model to follow.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium – the dial
The green dial of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 WBP208B.BF0631 features a sunray brush. This colour is on-trend at the moment, with most watch brands releasing one or two green hued models of late. I am sure green dials will inevitably polarise opinion, albeit I am an ardent fan. With the Ref. WBP208B.BF0631, the dial tone can appear deep and rich and then suddenly with a mere flex of the wrist it can transition into a lighter hue. The tone of the dial is repeated with the ceramic green unidirectional bezel. However, this model’s talents extend beyond its eye-catching colourway.
Along with other Aquaracer models, the hour and minute hands have a distinctive shape. They do not subscribe to the customary styles of lancine, dauphine, feuille et al. On the contrary, the style of the hour and minute hands is unique to the Swiss avant-garde brand. Moreover, the generous width of each hand augments legibility.
TAG Heuer has equipped the watch with a central sweep seconds hand, incorporating a trapezoidal lollipop presented in a vivid shade of yellow. This particular tone is also replicated on the bezel where it enlivens the appearance of the triangular index.
Consistent with the steel models, the indexes are octagonal, save for the cardinal points which are trapezoidal. A grey-toned minuterie encircles the dial and is marked with a combination of white strokes and squares.
As previously mentioned, the date display has been repositioned. Guy Bove has informed me that TAG Heuer plan to position the date display along a north-south axis on all future models as this endows the dial with a becoming symmetry. Certainly, the display on this watch proves very harmonious.
I find it endearing that despite its comparatively modest pricing, the Swiss brand has expended much effort on the minutiae. For example, the magnifying lens, positioned above the date display, is incorporated into the underside of the sapphire crystal, neat and out of harm’s way.
One of the delightful and slightly idiosyncratic details on this watch relates to the luminescent treatment. In restricted light, the hour hand and the indexes emit a green glow, however, the minute hand, lollipop and triangular index produce a blue emission.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium – case
Measuring 43 mm in diameter, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium is no shrinking violet, albeit, I think the dimensions are perfectly consistent with the divers’ watch remit. In recent weeks, TAG Heuer has released the Aquaracer Professional 200. This latter model is offered in a 40mm case, ideally suited to those seeking smaller proportions than the Professional 300.
Despite the size of the Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium, the watch is incredibly light. Moreover, the brand has clearly invested much time in refining the case and bracelet design, thereby creating a timepiece that confers an extraordinary degree of wearer comfort.
The bracelet is more integrated with the watch head and the lugs entice the bracelet to flow perpendicular to the watch head, readily encircling the wrist. Such attention to ergonomic excellence extends to the design of the bracelet links. They are thinner, not to save a few Swiss francs, but to heighten wearer comfort. I can report that the efforts of TAG Heuer were not in vain, this is one of the most congenial relationships I have enjoyed with any watch.
While the steel versions of the Aquaracer Professional 300 juxtapose fine-brushed and polished surfaces, the torso of this Grade 2 titanium model does not allow such polishing. Instead, the watch is presented in a muted, sandblasted finish. In my opinion, this works well, serving as an effective foil for the nearby dial to shine.
Rotating the crown is not only a tactile delight, it also provides a delightful accompanying soundtrack of clicks. The crown nestles between the sturdy shoulders of a crown protector. To the rear of the watch, the solid case back is screwed in position and features a depiction of a period divers’ helmet. Indeed, this watch is a ‘real’ divers’ tool, proffering an impressive degree of water resistance (300m).
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium – Calibre 5
With much talk of change, updates, enhancements and improvements, it may come as a surprise to hear that the movement for the Aquaracer Professional 300 has been carried over from the previous model, without modification. However, I am reminded of the words of Henry Ford, “We do not make changes for the sake of making them, but we never fail to make a change when once it is demonstrated that the new way is better than the old way.”
As this model clearly shows, TAG Heuer has looked very closely at each component and every line, curve and facet. Where justified, it has embraced change, but, consistent with Henry Ford, the Swiss brand has not changed the engine at the heart of this timepiece.
The Calibre 5 Automatic is tried and trusted. It is known to be a reliable movement and can be easily repaired or serviced. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and, assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 38 hours. The solid caseback prevents me from making any appraisal of the movement finishing.
Closing thoughts
Many horophiles are drawn to the benefits of owning a divers’ watch. Indeed, the combination of highly legible dials, robust case construction and useful water resistance makes a compelling case for acquisition. In common with the other members of the Aquaracer collection, the Professional 300 Green Titanium admirably meets the aforementioned criteria.
I would suggest the green bezel and dial ensemble is not the ‘safe option’. Conservative types may well err towards a steel model with a black, blue or silver dial. However, I suspect those individuals who appreciate the charms of verdant hues will love the appearance of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium. Personally, I fall into this latter camp.
The Grade 2 titanium case and bracelet proffers an array of benefits. It’s lightweight, not liable to corrosion and it’s hypoallergenic. This latter characteristic may be of particular interest to those individuals with a nickel allergy.
In terms of wearer comfort, the Professional 300 Green Titanium proves an agreeable companion. Indeed, it bestows a pleasant wrist fit and confers a degree of comfort only rivalled by a much-loved pair of slippers.
With a broad array of models to choose from, picking your ideal TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 will not be easy. However, the selection process will undoubtedly prove an enjoyable experience.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Green Titanium
- References: WBP208B.BF0631
- Case: Grade 2 titanium; diameter 43 mm; water resistance 30 ATM (300 m); sapphire crystal to the front and solid case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds; date
- Movement: Calibre 5; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Titanium Grade 2 bracelet with matching folding clasp with double safety push-buttons with fine adjustment system; TAG Heuer shield
- Price: £3,750 (RRP as of 5.10.2023)