TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Smoky Purple Watch Review
To kick off LVMH Watch Week 2025, TAG Heuer has released a version of the Carrera Chronograph with a glassbox and ‘Smoky Purple’ dial. The Swiss marque has also unveiled a second model executed in the same shade of deep plum, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (Ref. CBS5017.FC6605). Angus Davies provides a brief overview of both references.
Iconic watch dials
Ask a petrolhead to name a selection of iconic historical cars and they will undoubtedly specify not only the make and model but also their associated hue. Some typical examples include the Aston Martin DB5 in Silver Birch, the Ferrari 250 GTO in Rosso Corsa, the Jaguar E-Type in British Racing Green or maybe the Porsche 356 in Silbermetall.
Similar to the iconography of automobilia, the world of horology is populated with legendary watches, historically linked to particular dial colours. Take the inaugural Heuer Monaco, Reference 1133B, first released in 1969, it sported a metallic blue dial. Alternatively, think of the inaugural Heuer Carrera Reference 2447, unveiled at the Basel Fair in 1963, its dial was executed in cool silver tones.
In the sphere of horology, there are traditionalists who would never countenance the idea of veering off-piste and embracing new dial hues or case treatments. That said, as Heuer history has shown, there are legions of horophiles who yearn for choice.
LVMH Watch Week 2025
Similar to the catwalks of Paris, each season the watch press predicts what this year’s ‘it’ colour will be. About 10 years ago, blue was the new black. Considered trendy, it has since become mainstream. In recent years, green and salmon have been en-vogue. With the watch fair calendar ahead, I can’t help but wonder what hues await avant-gardist watch fanatics in 2025?
Well, this year’s watch season is underway with ‘LVMH Watch Week 2025’. The luxury conglomerate owns several brands, including Hublot, Zenith and TAG Heuer. And it is this latter company that has decided to dazzle fashionistas and horophiles alike with two new references dressed in deep purple.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Smoky Purple Glassbox
The first model, the Carrera Chronograph Smoky Purple Glassbox shares much in common with the blue dial model (Reference CBS2212.FC6535) unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, albeit this latest model supplants the circular-brushed dial epidermis in favour of a sunray brushed finish.
As its name suggests, this new Carrera features a ‘smoky purple’ dial but that doesn’t adequately convey the nuanced execution of this model’s bewitching face. TAG Heuer has endowed this watch with a gradient dial that’s purple at the centre, transitioning to black as it nears the edge of the display.
The dial features two azuré (snailed) chronograph registers, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, that measure elapsed periods of time. At first glance, the watch resembles a bi-compax arrangement, but look again and you will note a small running seconds resides at 6 o’clock. While the dial hue may be new, some beloved Heuer qualities remain in evidence, including peerless legibility and the fabulous in-house Caliber TH20-00.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Smoky Purple Glassbox
The second model, again dressed in the smoky purple attire, shares much of its specification with the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (Reference CBS5010.FC6543). This latter model, again released in 2023, has remained untouched by age, looking as fresh as did when it first burst onto the watch scene.
Aside from adopting a new purple colourway, the new Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Smoky Purple Glassbox shares much in common with the latest non-tourbillon release. The circular brushed dial has been supplanted by a sunray brushed execution. Moreover, the new Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is, once again, equipped with black azuré (snailed) counters.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Smoky Purple models – closing remarks
In 2023, when TAG Heuer released its Carrera Chronograph Glassbox, in both tourbillon and non-tourbillon forms, the execution of each reference was hugely impressive and the models were on point. Time has not diminished the allure of the blue dial options; however, the Swiss marque has chosen to offer a new and interesting dial hue, seldom seen elsewhere. It has complemented this colour with an alternative dial execution comprising sunray motif and a gradient finish. The only question is, will purple be the new black in 2025?
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Smoky Purple Glassbox
- Reference: CBS2219.FC6607
- Case: fine brushed and polished steel, diameter 39 mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: Calibre Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-00), automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 80 hours
- Bracelet: Perforated black calfskin leather strap with black stitching and purple calfskin lining on the reverse with tone-on-tone stitching. Fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
- Price: £6,050 (RRP as of 21.1.2025)
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Smoky Purple Glassbox
- Reference: CBS5017.FC6605
- Case: fine brushed and polished steel, diameter 42 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), Glassbox sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tourbillon
- Movement: Calibre TH20-09 automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: perforated black calfskin strap with black stitching and purple calfskin lining on the reverse with tone-on-tone stitching. Fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
- Price: £30,400 (RRP as of 21.1.2025)
