TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm Watch Review
Back in 2020, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Chronograph Sport 44 mm, a watch endowed with many attributes. Now, the avant-garde brand has replaced the model with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm, a perfect example of considered evolution. Angus Davies takes a deep dive into this latest model, highlighting the subtle changes.
Image – Reference: CDB2111.BA0054
Time flies
It’s funny, as I get older I seem to lose track of time. I remember patting my daughter on the back and wishing her luck for her first day at ‘big school’. Then, six years later, in what seemed like the blink of an eye, she was a young lady with lots of ideas and opinions. Likewise, I recall, back in 2020, writing about the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44 mm. At the time, I remember being mightily impressed by the model, an evolution of what had gone before. Well, six years later, the Swiss avant-garde brand has done it again, releasing the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm.
Image – Reference: CDB2112.BA0054
TAG Heuer Carrera – history
Along with my colleagues at ESCAPEMENT, I have written about the Carrera on many occasions, hence I won’t retell the same history for the umpteenth time. Nevertheless, it is important to say that since it was initially released in 1963, the motorsport-inspired watch has always been prized for its matchless readability. The first Carrera, the Reference 2447, was a hand-wound chronograph; however, over the years the collection has grown to include time-only, GMT and day-date variants. In 1969, Heuer unveiled the Calibre 11, a self-winding chronograph movement that was used in various models, including the Carrera. Automatic movements have been a constant feature in the Carrera collection ever since.
Image – Reference: CDB2113.BA0054
TAG Heuer Carrera – evolution
In 2023, Abrams published a fabulous 348-page book, aptly named ‘The Race Never Stops’ (ISBN: 978-1-4197-7030-2), covering the history of the Carrera. Thumbing through the tome, skimming past decades of history, you eventually arrive at ‘The Ultimate Record of TAG Heuer Carrera References’ – approximately 90 pages of former models. It is clear that TAG Heuer is not a firm that rests on its laurels. On the contrary, it has relentlessly pursued progress, innovating, sometimes merely tweaking, but, generally speaking, moving forward. Now, it would be disingenuous of me to say that I have loved every Carrera, but certainly I have liked most models bearing the famous name. The challenge is how you deliver progress without harming the legend. While there are many ingredients essential for success, arguably great design is the most important of all – a field where TAG Heuer clearly excels.
Image – Reference: CDB2110.BA0054
The importance of design
Over the years, I have met several individuals who have informed me that they have designed their own watch, before presenting me with a drawing, image or prototype that can only be described as ‘ill-conceived tat’. In my opinion, designing a timepiece is best left to seasoned professionals. They view watches through a very different lens to most of us. It’s a world where fractions of a millimetre matter and finessing an angle is of paramount importance. The look and tactility of a surface, the finish of a dial, the typography, the ergonomics, the ease of use… Quite simply, the list of considerations is endless.
Likewise, to revisit an existing design is fraught with danger – with even the most consummate designer occasionally getting things wrong. The inherent danger of updating a watch is that you risk losing the lustre that made the original model desirable. Indeed, I suspect for most designers there is an annoying inner voice saying, “It’s an icon, a best seller, a cash cow… don’t mess it up”.
Thankfully, TAG Heuer’s design team, based at its headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds, has, once again, worked its magic. Indeed, when appraising the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm and contrasting it with the 2020 release, there are many subtle improvements which coalesce, culminating in a harmonious conclusion. Allow me to elaborate.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm – dial
The new model is offered in a choice of four dial colours: black opalin, blue sunray brushed, green sunray brushed and silver sunray brushed. The rhodium-plated hour and minute hands make a return, but the luminescent fill is wider, making the hands appear more prominent.
On the former model, the hours were denoted with stepped batons. However, the dial of the new Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm features double-digit Arabic numerals, evoking thoughts of a car’s rev counter. Interestingly, the Swiss marque employed the same approach for the Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition 44 mm, a model unveiled in February 2021 to coincide with its new partnership with the Swabian car firm. The double-digit hour markers looked fabulous back then and their visual charm remains undiminished.
The central chronograph seconds hand was previously rhodium-plated, matching the hour and minute hands. Now, with the advent of this new model, the brand’s design team has chosen to execute this hand in a grey lacquered finish. The only exception is the black dial variant, which is endowed with a red lacquered hand.
Another significant change relates to the counters. Formerly tone-on-tone, they are now presented in contrasting hues: silver on the blue and green dial variants and black on the silver dial reference. Again, the black dial proves the exception, favouring a tone-on-tone approach. The counters are now of equal size and snailed (the counter at 6 o’clock was formerly smaller and lacked snailing). The date remains at 6 o’clock, but is now fully integrated into the small seconds display. Furthermore, the date is presented on a disc, matching the counter’s colour, an approach that appears more sophisticated.
The Manufacture has also done a bit more spring cleaning, removing references to the calibre and its power reserve. The track positioned on the rehaut is now more refined, with white strokes arranged at 0.2-second intervals, grey strokes positioned at 1-second intervals and white dots spaced 5 seconds apart. In addition, there are small triangular indexes next to the rehaut at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. TAG Heuer has added detail, but without inhibiting understanding.
Image above – TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 44mm – Reference: CBN2A1A.BA0643 (released in 2020)
Image above – the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42mm – Reference: CDB2111.BA0054
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm – case
Since 2020, the public’s fondness for large timepieces has somewhat diminished. Many watch magazines and blogs frequently proclaim that 39 mm is the ideal case size. Personally, I think this is somewhat simplistic – the optimum dimensions for a watch are more nuanced. For instance, the shape of the caseback, the thickness of the case, the profile of the lugs and, finally, the lug-to-lug distance all need to be considered.
TAG Heuer has reduced the case diameter to 42 mm (formerly 44 mm), the lug-to-lug distance is now 48.6 mm (previously 49.8 mm) and the thickness of the case is now 14.17 mm (it was 15.48 mm). These subtle changes will inevitably mean the Carrera Chronograph Sport will suit a greater number of wrists. The inherent danger of reducing the case diameter is that it can reduce the available space for the dial indications, leading to a cluttered display; however, rest assured, this is not the case on this occasion (pun intended).
Appraising the new model’s housing and comparing it with its antecedent of 2020 reveals additional subtle changes. For example, the leading edges of the lugs are now more pointed and the bracelet tapers as it nears the clasp. The crown and pushers are a wholly new design. Moreover, the pushers now resemble pistons that you would find in a car engine and where they meet the case, there is now a colour-coordinating ring encircling their form. These changes are subtle and may be missed by the casual observer, but for the owner, once familiar with the watch, they will undoubtedly heighten ownership delight.
The updated bezel is certainly one of the most noticeable differences with the new model. Formerly, the ceramic bezel was one piece, endowed with plump numerals and carried the word ‘Tachymetre’ in large bold text. The new bezel comprises a ‘visible steel cradle with a polished ceramic insert’. The steel frame exhibits a luxurious lustre on its outer edge, while the ceramic insert proffers scratch-resistance and a fade-free future. The Swiss Manufacture has also revisited the typography employed on the bezel. Now, everything feels more sophisticated and, ironically, more classical.
To the rear of the case, engraved on the upper right lug, the brand’s ‘Victory Wreath’ emblem serves as a reminder of the model’s historic links to motorsport. All dial variants are offered with a ‘fine brushed, polished steel H-shaped bracelet with easy link adjustment’, a feature that allows the wearer to alter the length of the bracelet without the need for tools. The blue dial is also offered with a perforated brown calfskin leather strap ‘paired with a new pin buckle folding clasp’.
Image – Reference: CDB2111.FC8378
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm – movement
Back in 2020, the Carrera Sport Chronograph 44 mm was equipped with the automatic Calibre Heuer 02. This in-house, fully integrated chronograph movement featured a highly desirable column-wheel and vertical coupling. Moreover, it was capable of running autonomously for 80 hours.
The new Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm is fitted with the in-house Calibre TH20-00, an evolution of the Calibre Heuer 02. In a fascinating article on The Edge (TAG Heuer’s magazine), Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Movements Director of TAG Heuer, points out ‘three key developments’ with this latest movement, namely: enhanced durability, allowing the firm to extend the warranty to 5 years; a move to bi-directional winding, resulting in less noise; and, lastly, a new look to the movement which can be appreciated courtesy of the exhibition caseback.
Closing remarks
Rooted in motorsport, the Carrera has long been an object of desire for legions of horophiles and petrolheads. It’s a name synonymous with chronographs, a byword for legibility and, along with the TAG Heuer Monaco, is one of the brand’s bestsellers. The notable popularity of the Carrera is a position many rival firms would love to emulate. So far so good; however, the problem with iconic models is what to do in the long term: maintain the status quo or change?
History has shown that when a brand rejects change, external factors can often affect the business. Economic forces, politics, legislation and new technology are just a few examples of external factors that can erode an iconic model’s market share.
TAG Heuer is a brand that never stands still. Sometimes, it releases bold expressions of watchmaking that grab the headlines, but when it comes to its iconic models, it tends to favour the idea of considered evolution. Indeed, in its desire for progress, the brand carefully fine-tunes designs, sometimes perfecting minuscule details, an approach it has repeated for the Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm. This latest model features a multitude of improvements, representing a step forward for the brand. Once again, the design team at La Chaux-de-Fonds has done a fabulous job.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport 42 mm
- References: CDB2110.BA0054 (black dial & bracelet), CDB2111.BA0054 (blue dial & bracelet),
- CDB2111.FC8378 (blue dial & strap), CDB2112.BA0054 (green dial & bracelet), CDB2113.BA0054 (silver dial)
- Case: fine brushed and polished steel, diameter 42 mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date chronograph.
- Movement: Calibre TH20-00, automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 80 hours.
- Price – blue dial & strap – £5,300 (RRP as of 8.10.2026)
- Price – bracelet versions – £5,500 (RRP as of 8.10.2026)