The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – Part Two
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony features a ‘peripherally suspended floating tourbillon’, a ‘peripheral mounted regulator’ for the minute repeater and a peripheral rotor to energise the movement. However, while the aforementioned elements dwell near the edges of the dial, the excellence of this timepiece makes it worthy of centre stage and deserving of the limelight. In the final part of this two-part feature, Angus Davies looks at the overall composition of this Grand Complication.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – 18-carat white gold dial
Dauphine-style hour and minute hands converse with applied trapezoidal indexes. Both are presented in 18-carat rose gold, setting a sumptuous tone for the refinement to follow.
The dial is formed of 18-carat white gold. Pure gold is yellow and it is the addition of other elements that imbue it with a silvery-white hue. These elements can include nickel, palladium, platinum and manganese. In this instance, the dial is 75% pure gold and 21% palladium, bestowing the alloy with a notably white appearance. Furthermore, the Swiss marque has endowed the dial with a grained texture.
Peripherally suspended floating tourbillon – no bridges above or below the cage
The ‘peripherally suspended floating tourbillon’ sits below noon. Unusually, there are no bridges positioned above or below the cage. Instead, the tourbillon cage is supported from the side and runs on three ball bearings, hidden out of sight beneath the dial. This approach confers sublime views of the regulating organ and escapement in motion.
A small seconds indication is mounted on the tourbillon cage and engages with a track encircling the aperture. It proves a highly intelligible display.
Unusually, the two hammers for the minute repeater are located front of house. The shape of both hammers differs, a characteristic that contributes to the desired sound. The hammers sit in two recesses, unassuming and still until they are called into action. Unlike some brands which hide the hammers to the rear of the case, Carl F. Bucherer indulges onlookers with a bewitching animated sequence when the lever on the left flank of the case is actuated.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – peripherally suspended floating tourbillon
The ‘peripherally mounted regulator’, situated above 6 o’clock, continues with the animated display. The purpose of the regulator is to slow the rotational speed of the dedicated mainspring barrel, thereby influencing the period of the chiming sequence. The reduction of the rotational speed is achieved by using two spring-loaded, weighted arms which extend outwards as the dedicated spring barrel unwinds. The extended arms create resistance, thereby reducing the rotational speed of the mainspring barrel. It is important that the tempo of the chiming sequence is not too fast or too slow. Moreover, if we consider the time 4:34, the chiming sequence would be four strikes (low tone), two strikes (high & low tones) and four strikes (high tones). The duration of the four strikes (low tone) and the four strikes (high tone) should be equal, hence the watchmaker will adjust the regulator to achieve the audible symmetry.
A small aperture at 9 o’clock informs the wearer when the minute repeater is activated or when the crown is pulled out. As I mentioned in part one of this feature, Carl F. Bucherer has also introduced various additional safeguards to mitigate the risk of harming the chiming mechanism due to human error.
A minuscule gap between the edge of the dial and the inner case walls affords sight of the gongs which are suffused with blue CVD, providing an eye-catching point of difference. Clients also have the option of red CVD, should they prefer a more ebullient appearance to their gongs.
Despite the extraordinary complexity of the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, the dial remains uncluttered and bestows a sense of calm. Although the dial delivers a sense of theatre, it remains tasteful at all times. Ironically, despite its ultra-complicated specification, the watch remains practical and could be worn on a daily basis.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – 18-carat rose case
The Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is housed in an 18-carat rose gold case. Measuring 43.8mm in diameter with a case thickness of 12.47mm, the proportions of this watch, despite the numerous components housed within, remain surprisingly modest. Indeed, a timepiece of such complexity would usually be accompanied with a leviathan’s torso, making this Carl F. Bucherer model all the more remarkable.
Similar to other members of the Manero collection, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is equipped with a domed sapphire crystal. This is normally a feature found on vintage-themed watches, however, this new watch doesn’t appear retro, but looks fresh-faced and timeless.
The case encompasses both satin-finished and polished surfaces. By juxtaposing both finishes, everything appears seemly and tasteful, yet wonderfully fresh. The caseband is recessed and the lugs are described as ‘hand-angled’, a further illustration of the craftsmanship employed on this timepiece.
An exhibition caseback bestows views of the movement.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – MR3000 Manufacture calibre
A casual glance at the MR3000 Manufacture calibre could be mistaken for being a hand-wound movement. However, closer inspection reveals there is a peripheral rotor discreetly encircling the movement. By adopting this approach, Carl F. Bucherer has produced a watch with a comparatively slim profile of just 12.47mm. I use the word ‘comparatively’ with due care. This watch does not have a svelte torso, but for a timepiece of such complexity, featuring 614 components, this watch is relatively slender.
By eschewing a conventional, semi-circular rotor found in most automatic watches, the wearer is indulged with sublime views of the bridges, racks, snails, wheels and levers. Furthermore, the wearer can look through the tourbillon aperture and enjoy a fascinating front-to-rear view and marvel at the dynamic spectacle on display.
Carl F. Bucherer has respected watchmaking traditions, but has not stuck doggedly to the past. This is obvious when looking at the composition of the escapement. Both the pallet lever and escape wheel are formed of silicon (silicium in French). This glass-like material does not require lubrication and is not susceptible to magnetism, corrosion or changes in temperature and, most pertinently, it is lightweight. Likewise, the cage is made of titanium, again a material known for its low mass (total weight of cage=0.4g). By using these lightweight materials, the tourbillon escapement consumes a modest amount of energy, manifest with the model’s impressive 65 hour power reserve.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – stop seconds
Despite tourbillons often being sold as the epitome of horological precision, not many have the capacity to set the running seconds precisely. However, Carl F. Bucherer is one of the few brands that has made a tourbillon with a stop-seconds function. This allows the wearer to pull out the crown, halting the rotating motion of the tourbillon and synchronise the watch with a reference clock. When the crown is pushed home, the tourbillon cage bursts back into life and the running seconds recommences its journey.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is a certified chronometer (COSC), providing independent validation of the model’s precision.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – finishing
Beyond its technical attributes, the MR3000 Manufacture calibre is beautifully finished. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève motif. They are also diamond-bevelled and feature highly polished chamfers. Moreover, when I spoke to Samir Merdanovic, Chief Technology Officer of Carl F. Bucherer, he pointed out that each of the planned 88 pieces can be made to the client’s own requirements. So, if you would prefer straight grained bridges rather than Côtes de Genève motif or would like your movement embellished with a liberal application of mirror polishing, then you have come to the right place.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony – closing thoughts
By its very nature, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony operates within a small, rarefied market segment where potential clients require the financial wherewithal to facilitate acquisition. In order to engage with this audience, technical excellence coupled with a vast amount of hand craftsmanship are essential to success. This high-end product, beautifully crafted at the brand’s Lengnau facility, wonderfully demonstrates the remarkable virtuosity of Carl F. Bucherer.
Although a grand complication is beyond the financial grasp of most individuals, the brand’s strengths are equally evident with the firm’s more accessible options, something which becomes obvious with the briefest ‘hands-on’ encounter. Indeed, with a propensity for innovation and a capacity for making highly original watches, Carl F. Bucherer is certainly a brand deserving of your attention.
Further reading
https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony
- Reference: 00.10925.03.63.01
- Case: 18-carat rose gold, diameter 43.8 mm, height 12.47mm, water resistance 1ATM (10m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, floating tourbillon, small seconds on the tourbillon cage, stop seconds
- Movement: MR3000 Manufacture calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); 47 jewels; power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: Dark brown Louisiana alligator leather, lining in dark brown Louisiana alligator leather, hand-stitched paired with an 18-carat rose gold ‘pin lock folding clasp’
- Price: Price on request