“In even monochrome and curving line”
Angus Davies reviews the Elipse Onyx by Jaquet Droz. This watch features a black dial with a charming moon-phase indication.
Jaquet Droz are masterful in creating delightful dials. The latest offering is no exception.
Black Onyx
A dial hewn from one piece of black onyx, it has a unique appearance. Jaquet Droz are experts in enamelling and with this black onyx model it would appear they have acquired another skill to add to their extensive repertoire.
Black onyx is a variety of chalcedony, typically composed of black and white bands. When subject to heat the quartz based substance acquires a black hue.
Black Onyx was often felt to be calming and and soothing. It was used for rosary beads as Christians followed the Pagans in believing it had healing properties.
Stainless steel case
The beauty of this watch is in providing a wonderful contrast between the black dial and the silver coloured details of the stainless steel case and the rhodium plated brightwork.
The dial
The dial is striking in its symmetrical lines. Below the brand’s nomenclature sites two rectangular shaped apertures reside, one displaying the day and the other the month.
The date is indicated by a hand, whose meandering course is concluded with a crescent.
The pièce de resistance is the silver coloured, smiling moon, with eight adjacent stars to provide it company on a cold, clear night.
Eight is a number which is repeatedly portrayed on Jaquet Droz products. A nod to Feng Shui and the Oriental customers who have favoured the brand since Pierre Jaquet Droz first exported his watches in the 18th Century.
A paddle shaped piece of onyx, advancing towards the rhodium plated Diana disc, plays a game of peekaboo with the wearer as the moon phase is imparted.
The case is a departure from typical complicated watches favouring stainless steel in preference to noble metals.
The selection of stainless steel is inspired as it provides a calm, serene temperament which compliments the limited pallet of colours chosen for the dial.
Movement
The calibre within the Jaquet Droz Eclipse Onyx is self-winding with a heavy oscillating weight. The weight features a sunburst motif and the two stars synonymous with the brand.
The twin barrels provide an impressive power reserve of 68 hours.
The sapphire caseback allows the wearer to admire the beauty within the handsome case.
Viewing the movement through the sapphire caseback, the wearer can see some of the 28 jewels housed within the case and the fine finishing exemplified by this exponent of haute horology.
Conclusion
Jaquet Droz produce elegantly masculine watches for discerning gentleman.
The selection of materials offers differentiation from other brands.
The dial is handsome, yet modest in demeanour. It does not scream or shout, but quietly exudes good taste.
The Eclipse has “the Moon’s meek shine” and to quote Thomas Hardy, “Imperturbable serenity”.
Technical specification
- Model: The Eclipse Onyx
- Reference: J012630270
- Case: stainless steel; 43.00 mm dimaeter; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; date; day; month; moonphase.
- Calibre: Self-winding; Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); power reserve 68 hours; 28 jewels.
- Calibre Reference: Jaquet Droz 6553L2
- Strap: Hand made rolled-edge, black alligator leather strap with stainless steel ardillon buckle