IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
Angus Davies reviews the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000, a diver’s watch with a notably lucid dial, impressive maximum water resistance of 2000 metres and a profound appeal.
This detailed watch review of the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 contains live images and specification details.
Helen Keller’s remarks could be readily applied to a diver’s watch. It has historically been a professional tool, keeping the subaquatic explorer safe. Today, electronic diving computers have taken on the primary role for ensuring dive times are carefully controlled. However, a mechanical diver’s watch is like a trusty companion, providing reassurance at all times. Indeed, it remains part of the diver’s inventory along with mask and fins. Should modern technology fail, the faithful Swiss lever escapement is omnipresent to provide a back-up.
For many wearers of diver’s watches, the timepiece won’t be used in extreme pursuit, but will often complement a sartorial ensemble.
A few weeks ago on ESCAPEMENT, I reported from SIHH 2014, and candidly expressed my profound admiration for its new Aquatimer Collection.
It was love at first sight with several models, including the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau”. Indeed this model with its tri-compax layout, blue dial and black rubber strap did make me consider making a further IWC acquisition.
Earlier this month, I visited IWC’s UK office in London and spent a pleasurable morning handling products, taking notes and getting to grips with the brand’s latest masculine watches. During my time at the office, my host enquired which model was my favourite. Immediately, the answer left my lips without inhibition, “the Jacques Cousteau model”, I replied. Seduced by its obvious visual appeal, it captured my heart on first acquaintance at SIHH and I have thought about the model a few times since.
However, after photographing various models and scribbling copious notes about various members of the Aquatimer collection for future editorial features, I am no longer sure. This is not to say I have fallen out of love with the blue dialled diver’s watch, quite the reverse in fact, but another model, the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 has surprisingly ensnared me with its blend of attributes.
I say surprisingly, because it is not the most obvious choice in the new Aquatimer collection. It does not have a chronograph or the elevated complexity of the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. Indeed, the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 caught me on my blind side. I placed it on my wrist and that is where the romance ensued.
Allow me to take you on my subaquatic journey of discovery and explain some of the nuances of this charming model.
The dial – lucidity with a pleasing surprise
The dial is clean with a welcome lucidity. The hour and minute hands are bold, chunky and presented in a peppermint green. The hours markers share the same hue as the hour and minute hands.
The black central sweep seconds hand is barely noticeable against the central area of the dial, save for its green triangular tip which traverses the minute circle. It is arguably the least legible aspect of the dial and I wonder whether white or green would have looked better. Nevertheless, this aspect doesn’t diminish my enthusiasm for this watch.
The External / Internal Rotating Bezel, with IWC SafeDive System, is superb to operate. This user-friendly system is described in more detail in my report from SIHH 2014 about the new Aquatimer Collection.
In common with all other models in the 2014 collection, the internal flange features a 15-minute ascent scale. Arabic numerals are used at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. At noon, a triangular index resides and all remaining hour positions are marked with a simple, rectangular baton.
Whilst the palette of colours is restricted to green, white and black, IWC has cleverly exploited the hues to aid interpretation. The triangular index and “15” on the flange are delivered in green, as indeed are the batons in between.
The batons and numerals depicted on the flange from 4 o’clock to 11 o’clock are presented in white, indicating less importance to the diver.
In restricted light, the minute hand and flange markings depicted from noon to 3 o’clock effuse a vibrant blue emission which is superb. The hour hand and all other numerals and markings exhibit a green emission.
A date aperture resides at 3 o’clock and is simple to read.
The black central dial area has an interesting pattern of vertical lines running from north to south. This design element grants a delightful depth to the dial, yet it does not impair ease of read-off.
The case – try on as many watches as possible
In common with many watch buyers, I have found myself shying away from oversize watches in recent years. There are exceptions to the rule and there is no substitute for appraising each timepiece on a case by case basis.
For example, I have recently worn a 50 mm watch, which sounded a ridiculous prospect on paper, but actually looked, and felt, wonderful when placed upon my wrist.
The IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 has a case diameter of 46 mm and case height of 20.5 mm. It may well prove too large for some gentlemen, but once placed on my arm, it overwhelmed me with its handsome appearance and, thanks to its titanium case, did not feel unduly heavy.
My recommendation for any would-be purchaser of a luxury watch is to try on as many watches as possible. Do not select a model merely by sight of an image, get close, be intimate and place it on your arm. The best retailers will take you on a journey which should include handling watches that ordinarily you may have not chosen and which at first glance may seem at odds with your own notion of good taste or style. Do not dismiss any suggestions of alternatives to your pre-selected model as it may lead to a new focal-point for your devotion which only a “hands-on” experience can deliver.
This is where a true horological romance can emerge.
The IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 was not the most obvious model in the range for my unrestrained affection, but intimacy changed everything.
The solid caseback , de rigueur for a diver’s watch, is engraved with a classic diver’s helmet.
The ribbed black rubber strap is magnificent, although I would to see an array of additional straps being offered by the brand, in due course, which would allow the wearer to playfully experiment with different looks.
The IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000, in common with other members of the 2014 collection, features the IWC bracelet quick-change system and is very simple to use. IWC also offers a XXL version of the strap to be worn over a diving suit.
The movement
The IWC-manufactured 80110 calibre is self winding. It has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz), contains 28 jewels and a power reserve of 44 hours.
The oscillating mass features circular Côtes de Genève motif and the mainplate is adorned with perlage, but sadly this beautiful finishing is hidden from view.
Closing remarks
Whilst I liked the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 when I first saw it at SIHH 2014, it was not a model I could have envisaged purchasing myself. It was therefore a surprise when this model crept up on my blind side and seduced me.
The dial is simple to read and exquisitely executed. The case is big, bold, infused with testosterone and will find favour with any red blooded male.
At no point up to now have I mentioned its impressive water resistance of 2000m, ideal for professional use. There is a reason for the omission up to this point. Many would-be buyers of this watch will probably never explore its true sub-aquatic potential. The rationale for selection are those looks, its hewn from granite robustness and its eminently clear dial.
There is no need to explore the ocean’s depths to discover the profound appeal of this watch. A moment of close association could easily result in a deep love, as man and watch become one.
Technical Specification
- Model: IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
- Reference: IW358002
- Case: Titanium; diameter 46.00 mm; height 20.5 mm; water resistant to 200 bar (2000 metres); sapphire crystal to front and solid caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date.
- Movement: Calibre 80110, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 28 jewels; Power reserve 44 hours.
- Strap: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.
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