Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG
Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG, winner of the GPHG Men’s Watch Prize. Bearing the word ‘Chronometer’ on the dial, this is the first wristwatch to feature a detent escapement within.
Natural beauty
I met my wife when I was 18 years of age and she was ‘sweet sixteen’. My love for her has never abated despite the passage of time. On the contrary, my adoration for my wife has grown more profound over the years. As I look across the bed, I marvel at her face. She has always exhibited a purity to her appearance. Her brown button-like eyes continue to beguile me and the subtle lines, adjacent to said eyes, reveal the wisdom she has acquired as a mother and businesswoman. In my opinion, her face is so pure, her allure so intense, she looks beautiful sans makeup.
On occasion, Heidi with subtle application of make-up, augments her natural beauty with tasteful wisdom. She does not mask any flaws, merely accentuating her appealing features. And so, it is with this thought in mind, that I was recently left dumb-struck by the matchless appearance of the Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds.
This watch exhibits a pure aesthetic, timeless and elegant, destined to be appreciated for generations to come. Housed within its comely 18-carat red gold case is a movement whose very creation is the epitome of refinement, acting like a metaphor for a brilliant intellect. However, similar to the subtle use of make-up, the appearance of the fine quality materials employed is enhanced with glorious guilloché work.
The Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG fuses ‘beauty and brains’ to sublime effect. In 2014, this handsome timepiece won the prestigious GPHG Men’s Watch Prize. Indeed, when the opportunity arose to become intimately acquainted with this golden-skinned beauty, with delightfully defined features, I immediately accepted without any hesitation.
Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG – dial
The hand engine-turned dial features a delightful barley-corn motif centre-stage. The traditional pattern has been magnificently executed by time-served hands without the merest hint of compromise. In contrast, a circlet of satiné circulaire populates the hour ring, providing a tasteful foil for the Roman numerals that indicate the hours. Encircling the dial canvas is a chapter ring that wonderfully interfaces with both the minute hand and central sweep seconds hand, aiding interpretation.
The diamond-finished hands require numerous hours of diligent hand craftsmanship to bring to fruition and are a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The eye of the hour hand is a concentrically polished solid gold insert, held in place by the sheer accuracy of the fit. The hands are polished to a perfect mirror gloss and thermally blued afterwards.
Positioned below noon, an arc-like power reserve indicator imparts the status of the energy held within the twin barrels.
The Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG exhibits a peerless charm, quietly engaging with the wearer with seemly conduct. In a society which seems obsessed with celebrity and conspicuous consumption this watch thankfully avoids gauche and outré behaviour. This is a timepiece of impeccable breeding.
Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG – case
The 42mm diameter case, formed of 18-carat red gold, is complex in form. The caseband is stepped, proving more protracted to create. However, seldom is excellence achieved in haste and the efforts of Urban Jürgensen appear justified. The horns are tear-drop style, gently elongating the appearance of the watch, softly cradling the wrist and guiding the brown leather strap to cosset the arm. Gracing the caseback is a sapphire crystal, allowing eyes to savour the finely executed UJS-P8 in-house movement.
Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG – Calibre UJS-P8
Development of the UJS-P8 in-house movement commenced in 2003, taking eight years of research and investment to bring to fruition. Under the aegis of its Danish owners, the ambition manifested by this Swiss company is incredible. To create a detent escapement for incorporation within a wristwatch is technically very challenging and the UJS-P8 is a world first and subject to worldwide patents.
A detent escapement, sometimes referred to as a ‘chronometer escapement’, was first implemented by John Arnold (1736 – 1799). This was a pivoted detent escapement. Later in 1782, both John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw simultaneously invented the spring detent escapement. Early examples of detent escapements featured on marine chronometers for navigational use. However, these were housed within gimbal-mounted boxes which prevented the escapement being subjected to extreme shocks. The difficulty with using detent escapements in a wristwatch is that, when subjected to day-to-day shocks they can trip or, worse still, become damaged.
In 2011, eight years after it commenced its journey, Urban Jürgensen finally succeeded in serially producing the UJS-P8 in-house movement. The movement was able to pass tough Chronofiable® testing procedures, delivering an accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day. The shock resistance was equally impressive with prototypes being subjected to 20,000 shocks and ‘extensive premature ageing processes to test long-term reliability.’
You may wonder why Urban Jürgensen would choose to use a detent escapement in preference to a simpler Swiss lever escapement. The benefits are numerous. A detent escapement proves more accurate. The direct impulse on the balance wheel from the escape wheel mitigates friction, resulting in extended service intervals. Moreover, the reduced ‘slide’ of the pallet jewels leads to reduced power consumption, hence the impressive power reserve of 72 hours.
Beyond the technical prowess of this movement, the flawless finissage is yet another reason for would-be purchasers to consider acquisition. The jewel sinks are superbly polished, the anglage is divine and the Côtes de Genève rayonnantes exhibit pulchritudinous aesthetics.
Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG – closing thoughts
Each aspect of the Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG reveals patient skill, carefully imparted with adroit hands. Every element of this watch is refined and breathtaking. In a world where compromise is ubiquitous, this timepiece proffers absolute perfection.
However, despite the protracted production of the Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG, with sublime decoration on both the dial and the movement, there is a refreshing purity which reminds me of my wife.
Despite being husband and wife for 23 years, our marriage remains strong and is destined to endure for the rest of our lives. I suspect that a union with the Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG, based on its many qualities, may well confer similar longevity.
Technical Specification
- Model: Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds 1142 C CS RG
- Reference: 1142 C CS RG
- Case: 18-carat red gold; diameter 42.00 mm; height 12.00mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds; power-reserve indicator.
- Movement: UJS-P8, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
- Strap: Brown leather strap, presented on an 18-carat red gold pin buckle.
- Price: CHF 49,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 26.6.2015)
Further reading
- Knudsen, John M.R. (2013). The Jürgensen Dynasty, Four centuries of watchmaking in two countries. Antique Collector’s Club Ltd