URWERK UR-102 Reloaded
The URWERK UR-102 Reloaded comes in two variants, the ‘UR-102 Reloaded Titanium version’ and the ‘UR-102 Reloaded Black version’. These watches come as a pair, presented in a box set. Inspired by URWERK’s inaugural watches, these latest models showcase the Swiss brand’s creativity while at the same time honouring the marque’s first models that were unveiled at Baselworld 1997.
Obsolescence
Clearing cupboards and decluttering drawers can prove a cathartic experience. There is nothing more satisfying than wading through a wardrobe bulging with old clothes, holding a bin bag in one hand and filling it will garments that no longer fit. Indeed, there comes a moment of realisation that youthful waistlines will never return.
However, beyond the curse of a middle-aged paunch, there is also the matter of intrinsic obsolescence. Despite light use, some clothes still show obvious signs of wear, necessitating disposal. Moreover, when perusing the ill-chosen garments of one’s youth, those once ‘cool’ clothes now look somewhat passé.
AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)
In 1997, having been invited to join the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants), Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei masterminded a unique interpretation of fine watchmaking and unveiled it on the AHCI booth at Baselworld in the same year. URWERK, the chosen name for the fledgling brand, released two inaugural watches, the UR-101 & the UR-102.
Image – URWERK UR-102 (1997)
These prototype models were made of steel as the company lacked the necessary funds to make them in gold. Measuring 38mm in diameter, both timepieces featured a wandering hour display; a distinctive means of indicating the time that the brand’s founders have since made their own.
While most of us have acquired some wrinkles and amassed a few pounds over the last 25 years, the UR-101 & the UR-102 show no signs of ageing and still look fresh-faced and youthful. Indeed, they have remained immune to changing fashions and still have the capacity to turn heads.
While URWERK has become a byword for neoteric design, its watches harness traditional watchmaking skills. Prior to co-founding URWERK, Felix Baumgartner worked on peerless expressions of Haute Horlogerie and has since applied his amassed know-how of mechanics and finishing to the Swiss firm’s contemporary creations. Put simply, there is much substance beating at the heart of each URWERK timepiece.
URWERK UR-102
Now, URWERK returns to its origins, releasing an updated version of its 1997 classic. The new URWERK UR-102 Reloaded bears a strong likeness to its 26 year-old antecedent, validating the brilliance of the original design. Indeed, this new timepiece celebrates the enduring eye-appeal of the company’s inaugural models.
The UR-102 Reloaded is slightly larger, measuring 41mm in diameter, however, it still subscribes to the original model’s circular, pebble-like profile. These smooth organic contours endow the Reloaded with a soft, gentle character.
Subtle refinements
Throughout its history, URWERK has crafted horological sculptures embracing straight lines, numerous textures, colours and materials. Comparing the URWERK UR-102 Reloaded with its 1997 counterpart, subtle refinements augment the overall allure of the newer version. For example, the crown is now positioned at 4 o’clock and is almost completely recessed within the case. It bestows a neater aesthetic, making the outline of the timepiece appear more symmetrical.
Originally the watch-head united with strap with eight lugs, four positioned above 12 o’clock and the other four near the base of the case. The URWERK UR-102 Reloaded features comparatively conventional lugs. However, look again and note their angular lines and facets engaging with the light. Said to be inspired by ‘the attachments on the Sputnik space satellite’, the lugs are larger and look more purposeful. And yet, despite being angular, they sit in concert with the curving lines of the case. Moreover, when affixed to the wrist, the watch feels at one with the arm, delivering an impressive degree of wearer comfort.
Wandering hours
Recently, I wrote a detailed account of the Swiss marque’s remarkable journey (URWERK – 25 years and counting – part one). In particular, I discussed how Felix spent time as a child in his father’s workshop, surrounded by clocks. Here, he discovered a clock made by the Campani brothers, featuring a wandering hours display. This means of indicating time piqued the interest of young Felix and later, in adulthood, together with his friend Martin, he reinterpreted the historical means of articulating the prevailing hour. With the advent of the new URWERK UR-102 Reloaded, the Swiss brand returns to its roots.
A new display
By relocating the crown, the watch firm has been able to enlarge the UR-102’s arcing display. The hour is shown via an oval-shaped aperture that commences its journey at 8:30 and curls clockwise until it reaches 3:30, at which point, a new hour value appears at 8:30 and a new 60-minute performance begins. This URWERK display delivers a wonderful sense of theatre.
As the oval-shaped aperture follows its curving path around the upper section of the case, it runs adjacent to a minute track, enunciating the prevailing time free of ambiguity.
Adjacent the hour window, various words and numerals provide a dose of intrigue. The text honours the inaugural ‘satellite collection’ at the initial unveiling of the UR-101 & UR-102 on the AHCI stand at Baselworld on the 10th of April 1997. In addition, the watch makes reference to its 26 years on planet Earth, ‘the time it took URWERK to travel 23,500,000 km around the sun’. The text may sound unconventional to some observers, but URWERK has repeatedly shown the wisdom of looking at the World from a different perspective.
Calibre 2.02
The Calibre 2.02 sits behind the Reloaded’s wandering hours display. The movement is self-winding, satin-finished and features 25 jewels. Assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 48 hours.
A box set
The URWERK UR-102 Reloaded is sold as a box set featuring two versions of the watch, the ‘UR-102 Reloaded Titanium version’ and the ‘UR-102 Reloaded Black version’. The first reference features a bewitching blue curved display. Its case is executed in steel and titanium and fitted with a solid caseback. Presented on a white rubber strap ‘featuring a textured Baltimore-quilt pattern’, the Reloaded Titanium version exhibits a summery vibe, likely to evoke a smile on any face.
The UR-102 Reloaded Black version is housed in a titanium and steel case, coated in black-PVD. The black tones act as a foil for the white dial detail. A smattering of red enlivens ’60’ on the minute track, but otherwise black and white are the order of the day. URWERK supplies this watch on a ‘textured rubber strap and Baltimora fabric’. Both straps are paired with colour-coordinating pin buckles.
Closing remarks
Limited to just 25 box sets, the URWERK UR-102 Reloaded is destined to remain a rare beast, seldom seen in the wild. Its blend of groundbreaking design, practicality and sublime craftsmanship will be familiar to many devotees of the Baumgartner-Frei double act.
From the outset, back in 1997, the creative pair did not set out to emulate others, but rather chose to conceive new expressions of horology. Although inspired by the clocks made by the Campani brothers, Felix and Martin were also influenced by astronauts, space and satellites.
Now, with 26 years of experience and more resources at their disposal, Felix and Martin have been able to revisit the original UR-102 and make small, subtle refinements. However, what is remarkable is that even with the benefit of hindsight they have demonstrated there were few reasons to deviate from the original 1997 design, a model that helped put URWERK on the map.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded Titanium version (steel and titanium case)
- Model: Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded Black version (steel and titanium case, treated with black-PVD)
- Case: diameter 41.0mm, thickness 11.30mm, water resistance 3ATM (30 metres), special-shape sapphire crystal to the front and solid caseback
- Functions: wandering hours on satin-brushed and engraved discs, hour and minute markers treated with Super-LumiNova®
- Movement: calibre 2.02, automatic movement, frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve 48 hours
- Price: CHF 56,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 28.4.2023). Supplied as a box set of two watches
- Limited Edition: 25 box sets