Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon Watch Review

The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon – Tribute to Haussmannian style is a ‘piece unique’ crafted by the Maison’s most exclusive department. Housed in a rose gold tonneau-shaped case, it features a hand-wound skeletonised movement and exhibits exquisite engraving techniques, paying tribute to the inspirational talents of the 19th-century visionary Georges-Eugène Haussmann.

Vacheron Constantin depuis 1755

Vacheron Constantin has the most enviable history in the world of luxury watchmaking, having been in continuous operation for more than 260 years. Jean-Marc Vacheron, a Geneva-based watchmaker, began his journey in 1755 when he opened his first watchmaking shop in the district of Saint-Gervais.

Built on a reputation of first-class craftsmanship and innovation, the business thrived and remained successful through its transition to his son Abraham (in 1785) and subsequently to his grandson Jacques-Barthélemy (in 1810). An entrepreneurial spirit led Jacques-Barthélemy to initiate exports to France and Italy, but to realise the company’s full potential a wider geographical expansion was necessary. In 1819, Jacques-Barthélemy formed a partnership with his associate François Constantin and together they began trading as Vacheron & Constantin. Guided by their moto “Faire mieux si possible, ce qui est toujours possible” (Do better if possible, and that is always possible) their relentless pursuit of excellence led to their creations gracing the wrists of royalty, dignitaries and affluent collectors.

Image – François Constantin

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers

Over two centuries later, the brand still resides in the top tier of luxury watchmaking. The most exclusive pieces, and the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin ownership, are from ‘Les Cabinotiers’, the brand’s esteemed bespoke atelier. Since it was established in 2006, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ has crafted the horological visions of several well-heeled clients and proved the ultimate showcase for the finest artisanal watchmaking. In recent years, the brand has challenged its teams of engineers, engravers, enamellers, finisseurs, gem-setters and guillocheurs to deliver a small collection of unique pieces annually that tell the story of Vacheron Constantin’s horological journey.

Vacheron Constantin Récits de Voyages

Recently, the esteemed Maison unveiled the ‘Récits de Voyages’ (stories of travel) collection, celebrating Vacheron Constantin’s geographical expansion through the ages. Just nine pieces pay homage to their international successes, from the Far East to the Middle East as well as the Americas. Perhaps the most stunning and intricate watch belonging to this collection is the Malte Tourbillon, created to honour the city of Paris and, in particular, the massive contribution of Baron Haussmann to the city’s architecture.

At a very young age, Haussmann, under the instruction of Napoleon III, was made responsible for the most radical reinvention of the city. So successful was the execution of his vision that it would go on to influence the urban landscapes of Cairo, Buenos Aires, Madrid and Vienna. Between 1853 and 1870, Haussmann held the post of ‘Prefect of the Seine’ and he oversaw vast projects to improve the capital. Traffic congestion, sanitation, public health, illumination and architecture were all transformed over subsequent decades.

Honouring Baron Haussmann

For the team at ‘Les Cabinotiers’, the challenge of honouring Haussmann’s achievements began with selecting a case of appropriate grandeur. In the early 1900s, the tonneau-shaped case was seen as a radical departure from traditional round pocket watches and early wristwatches. Had Haussmann survived another 20 years, this break from tradition would have certainly met with his approval. Since releasing the inaugural tonneau-shaped watch in 1912, the Maison has enjoyed enduring success with this form of watch.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon case

Fashioned in 18K pink gold, every surface of the case has been expertly crafted. Perhaps the most striking feature is the bold gadroons adorning the case perimeter, echoing the architectural styling envisioned by Haussmann. Sandwiched between the gadroons and the sapphire crystal is a fine decorative beading. It is estimated that the master engraver spent over 150 hours enriching the Malte Tourbillon’s case, with a significant proportion of those spent on the outrageously intricate flanks. On each side of the case, an ornate frieze emanates from a centrally positioned lion’s head.

A lion’s head is used throughout the world to symbolise strength, power and majesty. Haussmann frequently honoured Napoleon III with its abundant use across monuments, building facades and decorative door knockers. Les Cabinotiers team fashioned the lion head emblem to deliver a stunning three-dimensional effect, a feat made more remarkable by engraving to a minuscule depth of just 400 microns.

Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2790 SQ

By using an ultra-thin movement, Vacheron Constantin has been able to craft an elegant timepiece with a slender case thickness of just 12.7 mm. Indeed, the Calibre 2790 SQ is a mere 6.1 mm in height despite containing a total of 246 parts. Shaped to fit perfectly within the tonneau case, the 2790 SQ is entirely skeletonised and, similar to the case, has been breathed upon by a master engraver, carefully using a scorper to remove extraneous material. The mainplate and the bridges honour the city’s most famous landmark, the Eiffel Tower, which was erected just two years before Haussmann died in 1891.

Almost every horological decorating technique is exhibited within the Malte Tourbillon. Perlage, mirror polishing, inner angles, bevelling and circular graining all complement each other in a spectacular display of expertise.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon – display

In the upper left corner of the display sits a discreet power reserve, while a day of the month indicator is positioned opposite. At six o’clock, an oversized aperture houses the stunning one-minute tourbillon, its carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, the brand’s symbol since 1880. Beating at a sedate 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), the regulating organ performs a hypnotic dance and contributes to the majesty of this mechanical work of art.

Pink gold faceted hands reach out to highly polished simple hour batons. The inventory of functions is completed with the addition of a golden, small-seconds hand positioned atop the tourbillon cage.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon – strap

The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Malte Tourbillon is paired with a chocolate brown, hand-stitched, lined alligator strap fitted with a pink gold folding clasp.

Closing thoughts

As the brand’s motto suggests, Vacheron Constantin has embraced a Kaizen-like mindset throughout its journey. The Maison’s ‘Les Cabinotiers’ timepieces are the ultimate embodiment of that philosophy and a benchmark for other luxury brands to aspire to. Each year, only 40-50 pieces leave Les Cabinotiers workshops, predominantly fulfilling bespoke requests with just a handful of pieces becoming available for general purchase.

Whilst skeletonised watches may be polarising, there is no question that the Calibre 2790 SQ is a phenomenal work of art, especially with its Parisian/Haussmannian inspired details.

Baron Haussmann was an extraordinary talent whose work ethic and vision transformed Paris into one of the most exciting and glamorous cities in the world. One suspects that even Haussmann, a man of such high standing and considerable success, would be humbled if he could witness the Malte Tourbillon created in his honour.