Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Watch Review
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon has been a member of the brand’s product portfolio for a number of years. However, at Watches & Wonders 2023, the esteemed Maison released a new variant of the model. This latest version is housed in a 41 mm platinum case and features a prepossessing deep green dial. US-based, Meehna Goldsmith waxes lyrical about this ultra-refined exemplar of Haute Horlogerie.
What is a tourbillon?
As most people know, the tourbillon was invented to tighten up the precision in pocket watches. Conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet and patented in 1801, it addresses the effects of gravity on the balance spring by putting it in motion and averaging out errors. Remember, a pocket watch stays in a vertical position, while a wristwatch moves with the wrist, essentially simulating a tourbillon’s function.
The finest tourbillons
With the advancement of materials and technology, the tourbillon isn’t necessary anymore. Still, it remains an arresting expression of artistry and technique that brings the dial to life. Before the widespread use of CAD, seeing a tourbillon was as rare as spotting a Golden Pheasant in the wild. The tiny parts of the whirling cage had to be cut and finished by hand, and few had the knowledge or skill to bring this to fruition. Now, tourbillons can be mass-produced. An example of Chinese origin can be had for around $1500. However, in this price range, you won’t get the sophistication, elegance and labour-intensive finishing found in top-tier constructions.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon – look no further
If you want to see a stunning modern example, look no further than the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon. The ‘Traditionelle’ in the name references a collection that showcases horological traditions inherited from the 18th century and presented in contemporary form.
Vacheron Constantin isn’t new to the tourbillon game. Indeed, in a letter from the archives dated 1901, a Parisian client mentions his order for a timepiece with a tourbillon escapement, double chronograph, Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phases and power reserve.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon – the bar
The Traditionelle Tourbillon highlights the majesty of the tourbillon, giving it star billing on the dial. Large and imposing, it rests between 5 and 7 o’clock and tucks under the hour and minute hands, dominating the lower half of the dial. Anchored by the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem, the carriage features a conical semi-cylindrical-shaped suspension bar. To achieve this 3D effect requires delicate filing and polishing, which is a time-consuming affair.
Here’s an interesting factoid. When I made a factory visit to one brand, the head of technical development stated that it was mostly women that finished movement parts because they have more patience than men. I honestly can’t remember which brand specifically, so I don’t want to hazard a guess, but the comment stuck with me. I have trouble filing my nails into a consistent shape, so I can’t even imagine the intense focus and concentration, not to mention the skill of the finisher.
Returning to the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon, it takes approximately 12 hours to polish the upper tourbillon bridge or bar to a flawless conclusion.
The Traditionelle Tourbillon’s escapement beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz), which is the rate often found with historical pocket watches. Moreover, the leisurely rate allows for a clear view of the tourbillon performing its circular dance. While most tourbillons don’t incorporate a seconds hand, the Traditionelle Tourbillon does so in a subtle and refined manner with a blackened screw perched in the carriage.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon – green dial
Although the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon isn’t a new model, the lush green dial offers a fresh perspective. To create this compelling colour, the Maison employs a galvanic treatment, endowing the dial with a rich, deep tone.
Light from the sunray finish ripples off the face, complemented by a 41 mm platinum frame. White gold baton numerals circle the dial and act as diving boards, springing you into the deep green pool, while Dauphine-style hands in the same metal mark the passing time.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon – Poinçon de Genève
The rear view offers similar delights. Vacheron Constantin has some of the best finishing in the business, which is demonstrated by hand-bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. While you can’t see the circular-grained baseplate, which is hidden beneath the dial, you can be certain the finishing there is just as impeccable. All Vacheron Constantin Tourbillon models meet the stringent requirements of the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), which sets rigorous standards for precision and quality.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon – Calibre 2160/1
Running the show is the ultra-thin Calibre 2160/1, conceived with the tourbillon integrated into the movement. Other executions take the form of an add-on module to an existing movement, which is a much simpler and less elegant manifestation. To open up the panorama, this automatic calibre employs a 22K gold peripheral rotor. This harvests energy from simple wrist motion, energising the mainspring and contributing to the model’s impressive 80-hour power-reserve. With all this mechanical wizardry, it’s hard to believe that the thickness of this masterpiece is only 10.4mm.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon – closing thoughts
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon proves a striking presence on the wrist. Its green colour draws you into the vortex of the dial, while its matching green alligator strap enhances the overall vision. With this iteration, Vacheron Constantin expertly melds historic techniques to create a modern expression of Haute Horlogerie. You’ll pay a pretty six-figure sum for the privilege of owning one of these beauties, but for this level of execution and design, it’s worth it.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon
- Reference: 6000T/000P-H025
- Case: 950 platinum, diameter 41 mm, height 10.4 mm, water resistance 3ATM (30m), sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage, tourbillon
- Movement: Calibre 2160/1, self-winding movement, frequency 18,000 vph (2.5Hz), 30 jewels, power reserve of approximately 80 hours, 188 components
- Strap: deep green Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish and large square scales. Fitted with 950 platinum folding clasp in Maltese cross shape
- Price on request