Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial Watch Review
The new Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial has been inspired by one of the first El Primero models, the A386, first released in 1969. The modern-day watch wonderfully captures the eye-catching appearance of the original A386 with its tricolour subdials, but is powered by a contemporary iteration of the famous 5 Hz movement, the El Primero 3600. Now, the Chronomaster Original is presented with a sumptuous blue dial, a first for the revival model. Meehna Goldsmith retells the El Primero story before appraising this latest high-frequency release from the historic Manufacture.
Zenith El-Primero – the first automatic chronograph
All lined up at the starting gate. And go! The race was on. Who could develop the first automatic chronograph? Prior to 1969, all chronographs were hand-wound. Three contenders stood off in a showdown to be the first to develop this technology: the Chronomatic Group, consisting of Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Buren and Dubois Dépraz; Seiko; and Zenith.
Zenith El Primero A386 – El Primero 3019 PHC movement
These three brands hit the market with their automatic chronographs at approximately the same time, but Zenith was the first to cross the finishing line on January 10th 1969 with the El Primero A386 equipped with the El Primero 3019 PHC movement. The brand chose El Primero as the name of the calibre, Spanish for the ‘first’, to mark its accomplishment.
The El Primero A386 could track time at the blazing speed of 1/10th of a second. In that interval, light shoots 3/4 of the way around the Earth. Equally impressive, the El Primero 3019 PHC movement was a fully integrated column-wheel chronograph featuring a lateral coupling. This was far superior to a base movement with a module mounted on top.
Zenith achieved this feat by supercharging the heartbeat to 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph), equal to 5 Hz, a remarkable cadence. Up to this point, the highest frequencies of the era usually operated at 21,000 vph or 3 Hz. Furthermore, not only did the El Primero operate at a high frequency, it also had a 50-hour power reserve, surpassing most of its competitors.
Zenith El Primero A386 – dial
More than a mechanical marvel, the El Primero A386 was also a handsome devil. The matt or lightly grained dial was dressed in a silver-toned base and introduced the iconic blue, light grey and dark grey overlapping subdials. To include colour was bold when other chronographs favoured monochrome or panda dials. As well as aesthetically pleasing, the tricolour scheme was also functional, augmenting readability and facilitating ease of understanding.
Complementing this backdrop were baton-style hands lit up with lume and a red central chronograph seconds hand. The 30-minute counter took up residence at 3 o’clock and the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, while the running seconds was at 9 o ‘clock. The tachymeter scale circled the flange and a date was tucked between 4 and 5 o’clock. A contrasting track, positioned adjacent to the tachymeter, marked with a 0-100 scale, working in concert with the central chronograph seconds hand to record elapsed seconds.
Zenith El Primero A386 – Gay Frères ladder-style bracelets
The El Primero A386 was framed in a 38 mm stainless steel case without a bezel and featured pump-style pushers. The near tonneau-shaped case was imbued with brushed and polished surfaces and featured lugs with arcing sides. It came on a leather strap with a pin buckle. There was also the option of upgrading to a Gay Frères ladder-style bracelet, styled with open links that offered a lighter fitting on the wrist, while proferring 1960s flair. Gay Frères bracelets were top-tier, known for quality and sophistication. Today, collectors go to great lengths to hunt them down.
Zenith El Primero Calibre 400
Over the years, Zenith played with iterations of the 1969 edition, updating the movement and case size as well as trying out different dial designs. In 2009, marking the 40th anniversary of the El Primero calibre, Zenith released the Calibre 400, an evolution of the 3019 PHC. Indeed, ‘invention and evolution’ have come to define the El Primero legend. For example, the Plexiglas employed on the 1969 model was upgraded to sapphire crystal. Likewise, the solid caseback was supplanted by an exhibition caseback. Even the central chronograph seconds hand was updated to include a star-shaped counterweight.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial – inspired by the A386
Flash forward to 2025. Tastes in watches have shifted back to the nostalgia of yesteryear and Zenith again revisits the crown jewel in its collection. The Zenith Chronomaster Original pays tribute to the El Primero A386 of 1969 with its tricolour subdials, albeit now they are set against a blue dial, the signature colour of Zenith. In the most part, the brand has stayed true to the original specification, save for its movement which is a contemporary take on the iconic calibre.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial – El Primero 3600 calibre
Zenith has continuously innovated the El Primero movement and the Chronomaster Original now features the automatic El Primero 3600 calibre with a 60 hour power reserve. The central chronograph seconds hand makes a full rotation of the dial every 10 seconds instead of the customary 60 seconds. Other refinements include radial-brushed and polished surfaces on the case. Another feature that dials into the accuracy of the Chronomaster Original is the inclusion of a stop-seconds mechanism for synchronising the watch with a reference clock.
While the movement finishing on the 1969 release was slightly utilitarian, the appearance of the El Primero 3600 calibre, visible through an exhibition caseback, is imbued with flair. The column wheel, executed in a blue hue is now visible, the rotor is openworked and star-shaped and blued screws abound.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial – setting a benchmark
The new Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial comes complete with a blue calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and an additional 3-link stainless steel bracelet. Both the strap and bracelet secure to the wrist with a folding clasp. The Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial continues to remain a leader in the automatic chrono space, setting a benchmark for other brands to strive for. It moves through time, breaking life into meaningful moments to reflect on and experience, offering meaning through movement and mastery.
Further reading
https://www.zenith-watches.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue Dial
- Reference: 03.3200.3600/52.C910
- Case: steel, diameter 38 mm, height 12.6 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic movement, frequency 36,000 vph (5 Hz), 35 jewels, power reserve approximately 60 hours
- Strap: comes with 2 straps: blue calfskin leather strap with steel folding clasp. Metal bracelet with a folding clasp included
- Price: £9,500 (RRP as of 7.8.2025)