Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition Watch Review
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition is housed in a ceramic case and incorporates soupçons of Aston Martin Racing Green along with a tasteful addition of AM branding. US-based Marcus Henry shares his thoughts on this new release from the historic Swiss Manufacture.
Girard-Perregaux x Aston Martin
Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin share a similar kind of hunger. It’s the desire, above all, to keep growing, working and improving until they’re each the very best in their industry. Pushing technical advancement to its limits and marrying it to aesthetic perfection isn’t the exception, it’s the rule.
This is most apparent with the latest dual-branded model to emerge from the Swiss marque, the Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition. First launched in 1975 as the ‘Quartz Chronometer’, it soon acquired a nickname among Italian collectors, the ‘graduate’ (Laureato in Italian), before the soubriquet eventually became the model’s official name.
Both the original design and subsequent iterations subscribe to the luxury sports watch genre, fitted with the obligatory integrated bracelet, part of the horological zeitgeist of the 70s. But the latest Laureato Skeleton doesn’t merely subscribe to what has gone before, it also promises to be something a little different. Take, for example, the fascinating union of Aston Martin’s dark Racing Green with the black ceramic case – a juxtaposition of colours that comes close to clashing, but tastefully avoids doing so. Instead, it becomes something profound, worthy of contemplation. And once Girard-Perregaux has made you reflect… they’ve got you hooked.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition – black ceramic case
Girard-Perregaux has chosen black ceramic for this timepiece, a material that promises to retain its lovely colour for years to come and also proves remarkably scratch-resistant. Moreover, the finish is exceptional, residing on a higher plane. The 42 mm ceramic case is enriched with a horizontal satin finish, the bezel features a circular satin finish and the integrated bracelet encompasses both polished and satin finishes. Lastly, ceramic is very strong and hypoallergenic, further compelling reasons for selection.
When compared with steel, the appearance of the ceramic housing appears softer and less industrial. This is particularly evident with the Laureato. The bezel’s numerous facets, along with the prominent chamfers on the case and bracelet, evince a jewel-like sparkle against the various brushed surfaces. Indeed, the black ceramic highlights the sinuous curves of its construction. In different light conditions, each elegant line is allowed to reveal itself or recede graciously into the shadows created by the watch’s own colouration.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition – front of house
The luminescent hour and minute hands are partially openworked and collaborate with a minute track fringing the dial area. However, it is the movement which is allowed to do the talking. Its openworked design, incorporating numerous internal angles, reveals a plethora of components usually hidden from view. Residing at 05:30, the barrel sans cover allows the wearer to see the mainspring in various states of tension. The motion works, featuring silver-toned wheels, again indulges horological voyeurs, while the balance sits on high, positioned just below 12, performing its choreographed swirling dance. Girard-Perregaux has thoughtfully avoided any overbearing declaration of Aston Martin’s role on the dial and the Swiss Manufacture has purely used its initials to signify noon.
When surveying the dialscape, it soon becomes apparent that Girard-Perregaux has cleverly used colour to bring items to the fore or imbue them with a low-key appearance. For example, the keyless works is dressed in a stealthy shade of black, playing a deferential role to those parts GP wants us to focus upon. Moreover, by using covert tones on the majority of the movement, the dial indications remain eminently legible.
I suspect the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition will appeal to AM disciples as well as those individuals who are immune to the charms of a British V8. The British firm’s influence is thoughtfully expressed with touches of Racing Green on the hands, rehaut and indices. There is a small seconds indication at 10:00 that is visible but discreet. Overall, everything is clean, simple and rich in detail; qualities that will deliver owner delight for years to come.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition – rear view
Skeletonisation, when it’s done well and pushed near to its limits, is actually one of the most exceptional microengineering feats in watchmaking.
When too much material is removed from a movement’s bridges and mainplate, it can introduce flex, much like that experienced by a convertible after its roof has been removed. The more material that’s taken away, the higher the risk of the movement bending, inhibiting the motion of wheels, etc or causing everything to grind to a halt. It is for this reason that skeletonisation should be practised with care and attention to tolerances. In yesteryear, the process involved cutting a ‘regular’ movement with a series of handsaws and files. Today, CAD (computer aided design) is used to calculate loads on various parts of a skeletonised movement, while CNC (computer numerical control) and EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) can mill and cut to incredibly precise tolerances measured in microns.
In this instance, Girard-Perregaux, a Maison with the necessary bona fides, has worked with its existing in-house Calibre GP01800, a proven automatic movement found in many Laureatos. The Manufacture has removed superfluous material to reveal the movement’s many mechanical thought processes without compromising the overall strength of the calibre nor introducing any flex. The resultant movement, the GP01800-2627 calibre, is stunning. It features no fewer than four different hand-applied finishing techniques, including anglage, sandblasting, brushing and circular satin. Each of these contributes to a remarkably diverse array of textures, allowing the movement to shine with a jewel-like gleam despite its sober black finish.
The skeletonisation extends to the watch’s oscillating mass, which perpetuates the theme of mechanical nudity while still generating sufficient inertia to energise the mainspring. Indeed, the watch will run autonomously for at least 54 hours.
Unquestionably handsome, the GP repeatedly demonstrates its technical virtuosity. For example, it is equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel. Most watches are fitted with an index-regulated balance. With this system, the effective length of the hairspring is altered by moving the index towards or away from the stud, causing the watch to run faster or slower. However, with the variable-inertia balance found on this GP01800-2627 calibre, the length of the hairspring is fixed. To regulate the movement, the watchmaker tightens/loosens the screws affixed to the balance wheel, causing the watch to run faster or slower. This approach is more labour-intensive, but it delivers various benefits. For instance, the rate can be set more precisely. Moreover, the balance is more stable and less susceptible to shocks.
With numerous details on display, Girard-Perregaux has thoughtfully equipped the watch with an exhibition caseback that’s been adorned with a metallised Aston Martin logo, the sole overt reference to the car marque’s involvement.
Closing remarks
For a Manufacture with a history harking back to 1791, Girard-Perregaux shows itself to be remarkably agile and adaptable, consistently conceiving new designs and bringing them to life. Unlike most rival brands, the company not only designs and crafts its watches, it also has a rich history as a movement specialist, designing and crafting its own calibres. In this instance, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition wonderfully demonstrates the Manufacture’s prowess in designing both watches and movements, once again successfully uniting each element to form a cohesive whole.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition
- Reference: 81015-32-3538-32A
- Case: ceramic, diameter 42 mm, height 11.13 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: GP01800-2627 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 25 jewels, 173 components, power-reserve min. 54 hours
- Strap: ceramic bracelet
- Price: £46,200 (RRP as of 11.8.2025)
- Limited Edition: 88 pieces