Our Best Pilots’ Watches Reviewed
Cartier is widely attributed with making the first pilots’ watch back in 1904 when Louis Cartier gave his friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator, a timepiece as a present. The Brazilian had initially travelled to France to study engineering, but later came to prominence in 1901 by famously flying an airship around the Eiffel Tower. The watch given to Santos-Dumont is reportedly lost, but much of the original design elements live on in the modern-day version of the iconic timepiece, the Santos de Cartier.
During the 1930s, military pilots’ watches became a supplement to cockpit instruments. The German Air Ministry created a specification for pilots’ watches termed ‘B-Uhren’ watches. These horological leviathans measured 55 mm in diameter and were worn over the sleeve of a flying suit or jacket. Other details included a triangular index at noon, a hacking seconds and a large onion-shaped crown (designed to be manipulated with gloved-clad hands). Those companies entrusted to make B-Uhr watches included A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Laco, Stowa and Wempe.
Much of the styling of the B-Uhr watches can still be seen in the present-day IWC Big Pilot, albeit these latter watches are much smaller, making them better suited to regular daily wear.
While some of today’s pilots’ watches continue to indicate the hours, minutes and seconds, a growing number of models feature additional complications such as a chronograph or perpetual calendar.
Breguet Type XX (civilian specification)
Breguet has a rich history of making pilots’ watches dating back to 1949. Louis Charles Breguet, a direct descendent of Abraham Louis Breguet, was a famous aviator. He built his first airplane in 1909, set a speed record in 1911 and founded Compagnie des Messageries Aériennes, the forerunner to Air France. The Breguet Type 20 (military specification) timepiece and its sibling, the Type XX (civilian specification) watch were updated in 2023. They unite all that is wonderful about this esteemed Maison.
- High frequency movement (5 Hz) with variable-inertia balance, column-wheel and vertical coupling
- Flyback chronograph
- Beautifully-finished movement
- Nuanced case execution with hour track marked on the bezel
- Three-register dial layout with date
Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph
Raymond Weil, the founder of the eponymous watch brand was a keen amateur pilot. This particular reference was produced in honour of Monsieur Weil and delivers an impressive performance for comparatively little.
- Flyback chronograph featuring a column-wheel and horizontal coupling
- The case features a grey PVD finish which imbues the model with an aged apperance
- The dial is enriched with various textures and depths
- Bi-compax layout confers a symmetrical balanced look
- A high quality-price ratio
TAG Heuer Autavia Automatic Chronometer Flyback
TAG Heuer is widely known for its two iconic models, the Carrera and the Monaco. The Autavia can trace its history to 1962 and is inspired by the dashboard timers found in historic cars and aeroplanes.
- Flyback chronograph featuring a column-wheel and vertical coupling
- Steel case with brushed and polished surfaces
- Rotating ceramic bezel
- COSC-certified chronometer
- Panda dial with luminescent hour and minute hands with matching indexes
