Our Best Skeleton Watches
Skeleton watches, sometimes termed ‘openworked watches’ date back to the 18th century. Traditionally a ‘regular’ movement was used and then a skilled watchmaker/artisan would use a combination of saws and files to remove extraneous material. It was essential that the watchmaker did not remove metal from critical areas such as near the gear train. Moreover, it was important that the rigidity of the movement be maintained as any flex could impair operation. When a skeleton watch is executed correctly it bestows wonderful views of components usually hidden behind a dial and charms onlookers with its filigreed appearance.
While some brands continue to openwork watches using traditional methods, an increasing number of firms adopt a clean sheet design approach. This involves designing the movement using CAD (computer-aided design) and then milling components to minute tolerances using a CNC machine (computer numerical control). A benefit of using CAD is that the ‘constructeur’ (the movement specialist) is able to calculate the loads on each part of the movement to ensure there is no unwanted flex.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
Launched a few months after the arrival of Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, the Tonda PF collection is an exemplar of restrained elegance. Underpinning each reference is an extraordinary quotient of in-house expertise.
- Unlike some skeleton dials, the hands stand out from the filigreed background, aiding readability.
- Superb hand-finished movement.
- The timepiece was designed to be a skeleton watch from the outset, hence there is a welcome absence of flex which can occasionally affect some openworked watches.
Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel
Arnold & Son is a Manufacture in the truest sense, crafting in-house movements at its atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The Maison is known for making modern-day timepieces that often reference the work of John Arnold.
- The application of blue PVD to the mainplate and chapter ring wonderfully accentuates the silver-toned movement components.
- The openworked design reveals many components normally hidden from view.
- The symmetrical arrangement of the barrels, the small seconds display and the balance wheel.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton 39 mm
The inaugural Maurice Lacroix AIKON was released in 2016 and featured a quartz movement. Two years later, the Jura-based brand released mechanical versions of the AIKON. The model has been a resounding success for the firm and has led to it releasing a broad selection of references including this skeleton model.
- Simple to read.
- Supremely comfortable to wear.
- The watch is accessibly priced and proffers a high quality-price ratio.
