Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Big Wave
The Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Big Wave is an eye-catching regulator, incorporating a three-dimensional display. The hours are shown on an off-centre dial, featuring a distinctive funnel-type display, while the seconds are displayed using a 30-second retrograde indication. However, the pièce de résistance is the hand-guilloché dial made using a rose-engine lathe.
In recent years, Chronoswiss has masterfully fused classical styling with modern design elements. The brand has shrewdly endowed its models with distinctive details which are very familiar to its many fans. These classical details include the fluted bezel, onion crown, vertically brushed caseband and the company’s patented screw-in system, securely uniting the strap to the lugs.
Since the Lucerne-based firm was acquired in 2012 by Oliver Ebstein and his family, it has boldly embraced vibrant dial tones. Likewise, several of the brand’s models feature three-dimensional dial architecture. In some instances, the brand has also enriched some models with intricately-patterned hand-guilloché dials, executed using a historical rose engine lathe.
Two days ago (10.3.2021), the Swiss marque unveiled the new Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Big Wave. At first glance, it looks similar to other Chronoswiss models, which is no bad thing, however, there are distinguishing features that differentiate this model from its siblings.
As previously mentioned, the hand-guilloché dial is made using a rose-engine lathe. While this may suggest the presence of electrical power or some form of automation, this is not the case. A brass plate is fixed to a rotating head in a vertical position. By pressing a cutter against the brass plate and turning the rotating head using a wheel, the cutter imparts a groove to the brass plate. The machine features an array of rosettes which the artisan selects depending on the specific pattern required.
Hand-guilloché necessitates much time and expertise. Firstly, when turning the handle to control the rotating head, the artisan must ensure it is turned at a constant speed. Secondly, the hand-pressure applied to the cutter must be uniform. It may sound simple but in reality, it requires many years to perfect.
The dial of the Open Gear ReSec Big Wave is enlivened with a ‘big-wave-pattern’. The waves are more elongated than usual and are also positioned very close together at 0.275mm apart. This presents a huge challenge for the artisan as they must rotate the handle at an especially slow speed while simultaneously applying uniform pressure. Should the artisan loose concentration and misjudge the speed or pressure, the dial will be ruined. Consistency is key. However, such efforts are rewarded with a dial, rich in depth and detail. Indeed, a stamped dial is unable to replicate the allure of an artistic hand-guilloché canvas.
Upholding its penchant for vivid dial hues, the Swiss company chose to impart colour using CVD, granting the dialscape with attractive depths.
This model shares many details with other members of the Open Gear ReSec Big Wave. Subtle differences include a circular satin brushed finish on the funnel-type hour track, mirror polished screws on the dial and the skeletonised rotor executed in a zestful shade of electric blue.
Another aspect of this watch worthy of note is the price. Normally, a hand-guilloché dial, courtesy of its protracted creation, is the preserve of watches costing five or six figures, however, the Big Wave costs £8,100 (RRP as at 12.3.2021), a price which represents incredible value for money.
The brand’s press release (March 2021)
Three-dimensional hybrid dial construction, handmade guilloché, revealed principal mechanics, decorations that demand special tools – and an inimitable version of a classic colour – the new addition to the Open Gear ReSec collection makes a splash. “With the Open Gear ReSec Big Wave we wanted to create a modern mechanical watch with a distinctively metallic blue. To amplify the lustre and depth of the handmade guilloché’s long, big-wave pattern, it had to be coated. Why? Galvanic treatments tend to be rather mute,” says Chronoswiss designer and guilloché master Maik Panziera about the chemical vapour deposition treatment. Indeed, the nano decoration variety of the CVD creates a stunning trompe-l’oeil: In some light conditions the peaks and valleys seem to outdo the watch’s height at 13.35 millimetres.
Guilloché
Panziera executes the long guilloché waves by hand with the aid of a century-old rose-engine turning machine in the Chronoswiss atelier in the heart of Lucerne. The pattern looks easy in comparison to more elaborate decorations, but is, in fact, much harder to execute. “There is only 0.275 millimetres between each line, and with these long arcs you must have zero vibration in the 250-kg-machine, as that would be instantly visible.” Suitably, Panziera often performs this archaic craft while listening to heavy metal music. “To avoid the vibrations the hand work must be carried out very slowly. Every pattern has its own charm; the big wave guilloché gives this strong, yet calming effect,” he continues.
Extreme Philosophy
The same philosophy of extreme attention to detail goes into all decorations. For instance the minute and the funnel-shaped hour ring have a circular satin brush, and the stainless steel screws holding the dial’s straight-grained bridges with chamfered and polished edges are mirror polished. “This is very tricky, since the reflective finish is so sensitive. We have made our own screwdrivers out of brass and plexiglass, since these materials are softer than steel,” says Panziera. Look closer and you will find more complex finishes. The areas surrounding the screws sport a circular grain, the limited edition plate is adorned with a horizontal satin brush, and the bridge spanning the 120-degree 30-second retrograde features a mix of sandblasting and circular grain.
Movement Rebuilt
The C. 301 movement is a doubly rebuilt workhorse movement where Chronoswiss has added the retrograde as well as the regulator. “The regulator’s watch display is a hybrid of a dial and a module plate holding the bridges, screws, wheels and jewels – an elaborate 42-part construction on two levels,” says Panziera about the unique construction. Equally unique to the Lucerne brand is the 17-part stainless steel case with knurled bezel and patented lug construction. Normally a regulator mechanism is not visible – but on the Open Gear models the three wheels that facilitate the decentralised hour hand are beautifully flaunted.
And last but not least – to assure easy reading through the night, massive Super-LumiNova pillars are used for the five-minute markers.“ At a glance this looks like a classical watch – but it is really riding our big wave of modern mechanical,” says Panziera
Further reading