Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet
Whilst recently attending Geneva Watch Days, Angus Davies affixed the new Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet to his wrist. It’s not the first UR-100V reference he has worn but it does look very different from its forebears. However, is it really a new watch?
Throughout the year, many brands release ‘new watches’, but what does ‘new’ really mean? Sometimes, the word is applied to a wholly new model comprising a new case, a new dial and a new movement. On the hand, the word ‘new’ is sometimes used to describe an ‘animation’, a watch that possibly has a differently hued dial or maybe a case dressed in DLC, but otherwise essentially the same.
Listening to journalists chatting, it seems that ‘animations’ seldom warrant even a few column inches of coverage. Indeed, in many instances, only wholly new models or novelties are considered worthy of publicity.
But not all animations are equal. In some cases, they encompass a colossal amount of work and a sizeable dose of creativity. Step forward Urwerk. The Genevan watch brand has released a number of new models over the years. Some have been totally new, infused with the Maison’s highly original take on watchmaking, while other references have been a fresh take on former models. Should these latter watches be referred to as ‘animations’? I suggest this would be unfair.
Back in 2019, Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, the co-founders of Urwerk, took a blank sheet of paper and conceived something new. A new case formed of titanium and steel, a new automatic movement (the UR 12.01 Caliber) and a new dial.
Sure, the watch employed satellites to denote the hours and minutes, a means of imparting information much loved by the Maison. But, what about the indications that show the rotational distance at the equator, as well as the orbital distance, both calibrated for 20 minute periods? These indications were unquestionably new, totally unprecedented and wonderfully Urwerk.
Image – UR-100V Iron
This know-how was distilled to form the UR-100 SpaceTime. The Iron version came in a brushed and polished titanium and steel case, while the Black variant came appointed with a black DLC finish and sported yellow-green dial accents.
A few months later, Urwerk released the UR-100 Gold Edition, eschewing the titanium and steel pairing in favour of 18-carat 2N yellow gold. This was not simply a different coating but a totally new case, requiring new tooling and incurring additional costs.
The UR-100V Iron, formed of steel and titanium, embraced blue and white tones on the dial. Ordinarily, this may sound inconsequential, however, given Urwerk only procures small quantities of components and does not benefit from the economies of scale enjoyed by large brands, the changes would have incurred significant cost.
Image – UR-100V T-REX
Nevertheless, clearly on a roll, the luxury marque released the UR-100V T-REX housed in a prehistoric-themed case made of bronze. And then there was the UR-100V ‘Blue Planet’ housed in blue PVD steel with a titanium caseback and a number of parts suffused with blue PVD.
Image – UR-100V ‘Blue Planet’
Keeping up? What about the UR-100V Time and Culture I? A copper coloured steel case with Aztec-inspired motifs and widespread use of green-toned parts. The UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket was unveiled a few months ago. Back to black with a new, matching titanium bracelet.
Image – UR-100V Time and Culture I
Calibre UR 12.02
Making 25 bracelets for a one-off limited edition is supremely expensive, but this has never stifled the imagination of Messrs Baumgartner and Frei. Oh, and the movement fitted to this model was the new improved Calibre UR 12.02, usurping the Calibre UR 12.01, positioning the hours and minutes closer to one another.
Image – UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket
Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet
Now the dynamic duo have released a new reference, the Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet. The dominant colour is best described as plum, Joker-purple or slightly aubergine in shade (no double entendre intended). It is inspired by the last colour in the electromagnetic spectrum, violet, and looks decidedly different from its forebears.
The indications impart the same information, but encompass yellow, purple and white hues. The case is formed of sanded shot-blasted titanium suffused with violet DLC. The purplish tones also extend to the movement, while the watch is presented on a vestel-virgin-white textured rubber strap.
Urwerk can teach many large brands a few tricks when it comes to product innovation. Yes, it makes wholly new models, devoid of any recycled components. However, it goes beyond simple ‘animations’, repeatedly working with different colours, textures and materials to deliver something, well, new.
The Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet may share some of its DNA with the UR-100 Space Time et al, but when affixed to the wrist it looks decidedly new and, in my opinion, it is deserving of many column inches. Fellow journalists take note.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Urwerk UR-100 UltraViolet
- Case: violet DLC on sanded shot-blasted titanium; width 41.0mm; length 49.7mm; thickness 14.0mm; water resistance 3ATM (30 metres) sapphire crystals to the front and back
- Functions: Hours; minutes; distance travelled on Earth’s equator in 20 minutes; the distance Earth has travelled around the sun in 20 minutes
- Movement: UR 12.02 Caliber; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz); 40 jewels; power reserve 48 hours
- Price: CHF 55,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 6.9.2022)