Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Watch Review
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon is the latest model to emerge from the esteemed Swiss Manufacture located in the Vallée de Joux. Upholding the firm’s reputation for making classical dress watches, this latest creation unites a blue degradé dial with rich golden hues. Housed in a modestly sized case, just 39 mm in diameter, this new timepiece is packed with horological virtue.
Vallée de Joux – complicated movements
The Vallée de Joux, located in the Swiss Canton of Vaud, is an altitudinous region, dressed in a blanket of coniferous trees. Unquestionably beautiful, the area experiences ferocious winters. Indeed, during the coldest months, the landscape transitions from green to white with the trees straining under the weight of abundant snow. It is set against this backdrop, that the region began making watch movements.
Farmers, unable to work frozen lands, would hibernate within their homes and work on watch movements. As the icicles melted and the warmer weather arrived, the movements were collected by specialist traders and sold to établisseurs in cities such as Geneva. The établisseurs would then decorate the movements, regulate them, affix a dial and hands and encase everything within a suitable case bearing their own name.
Ultra-thin watches
The Vallée de Joux has always been known for its expertise in making watch movements. In particular, the region gained a reputation for making complicated movements such as perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and ultra-thin calibres. This latter form of movement requires the watchmaker to position components where they will function reliably while occupying minimal space. At all times, due consideration has to be given to the possibility of flex because if a movement lacks rigidity it may impair the operation of the gear train.
Jaeger-Le-Coultre – a Manufacture par excellence
Over time, new companies have become established in the Vallée de Joux, producing complete watches ie movements, cases, dials, etc. One such firm is the venerable Maison, Jaeger-Le-Coultre, a marque with a history dating back to 1833. Over the years, this prestigious company has gained a reputation for crafting exceptional timepieces. For instance, the late Queen Elizabeth II wore a Jaeger-Le-Coultre Calibre 101 at her Coronation in 1953. The mechanical movement at the heart of this dainty watch remains the ‘world’s smallest mechanical movement’, a record it has held since 1929.
Jaeger-Le-Coultre – makers of more than 1300 different calibres
In the highest echelons of Haute Horlogerie, three brands are often cited as the finest exponents of watchmaking, namely Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Invariably termed the ‘Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’, all three firms have at times procured movements from Jaeger-LeCoultre. With over 400 patents to its name and having produced more than 1300 different calibres, the Maison from Le Sentier has a very impressive résumé, making it the perfect candidate for a position on anyone’s wrist.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon – a slender dress watch
Now, the brand has just unveiled a new addition to its highly popular Master Ultra Thin collection. Intended to be a dress watch, the slender timepiece brims with refinement. Measuring 39 mm in diameter, it does not crassly fanfare its presence. On the contrary, this latest JLC is the epitome of sophistication.
Contrary to what you might expect, the Jaeger-Le-Coultre does not have a waif-like torso in the sub 5 mm category, its physique gives due consideration to torsional rigidity. Nevertheless, please don’t misconstrue, this is not a watch that has lived on a diet of fast food, its svelte torso will readily still slip beneath a shirt cuff in a state of tastefully understated repose.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon – the dial
The dial on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon steers a seemly path between modernity and tradition. The dauphine-style hour and minute hands collaborate with applied indexes to impart meaning. Small golden dots, positioned between said indexes, succinctly denote each passing minute. At the base of the dial, the poetic use of a mirror-polished golden disc set against a starry scene indicates the moon phases. Nearby, the prevailing date is indicated using a circular track and golden hand. A lithe centre seconds hand completes the inventory of functions.
The dial is reminiscent of the sky above the JLC Manufacture on a clear evening with dark blue hues at its centre assuming obsidian shades near its edge. The slightly unassuming appearance of the dial serves as a foil for the rich golden dial details and the 18-carat gold case.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon – Calibre 925
As with all Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, all roads inevitably lead to the movement. In this instance, the Maison has chosen to use its impressive Calibre 925 self-winding movement. Equipped with a lone barrel, the movement will run autonomously for 70 hours. Unlike most movements, which are typically fitted with a raquette to alter the rate, the Calibre 925 is fitted with a variable-inertia balance.
With a variable-inertia balance, the effective length of the hairspring is fixed. The rate is altered by adjusting the timing screws affixed to the rim of the balance. This approach confers a higher degree of precision and, should the watch be subjected to a shock, it is less likely to need remedial regulation.
The movement is adorned with perlage, Côtes de Genève motif and thermally blued screws; details befitting a fine watch of this standing. With the option of extending the warranty for up to 8 years, as part of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Care Program, the brand is clearly confident about the reliability of its products. However, for many purists, myself included, we’ve always recognised the dependability and extraordinary quality of the Maison’s products.
Further reading
https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon – technical specification
- Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon
- Reference: Q1362580
- Case: 18-carat pink gold, diameter 39 mm, height 9.3 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, moon phases, date
- Movement: Calibre 925, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), contains 30 jewels, power reserve 70 hours, 245 components
- Strap: blue alligator strap supplied with 18-carat gold pin buckle
- Price: £22,000 (RRP as of 4.10.2023)