Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition Watch Review
The Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition is the latest creation to emerge from the brand’s Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Angus Davies, a long-time admirer of the brand, delves into Angelus’s history before looking at the firm’s latest neoteric offering.
Angelus was founded in 1891
Founded in 1891 by the Stolz brothers, Angelus is steeped in history. The firm was established in Le Locle which, along with nearby La Chaux-de-Fonds, is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The Maison has a long tradition of making chronographs, some equipped with a calendar. It also has a reputation for producing impressive alarm watches and travel clocks.
Furthermore, Angelus is known for crafting movements capable of running for long periods of time. For example, in 1956, Panerai produced a diving watch for the Egyptian Navy, the GPF-2/56. It featured an Angelus movement with an 8-day power reserve. Highly prized among the ‘Paneristi’, the few models in existence, estimated to be less than 50, attract eye-watering sums at auction. For instance, in 2015, Christie’s sold an example (Case No N.E.012) with a signed Angelus movement for US$ 149,000.
The rebirth of Angelus in 2015
In common with large swathes of the watch industry, Angelus did not escape the effects of the so-called ‘quartz crisis’ and unfortunately the company ceased making watches in the 1970s. Thankfully, in 2011, Manufacture La Joux-Perret, the famous movement specialist, acquired the brand and, four years later, unveiled the Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière. With its distinctive rectangular profile, this model was contemporary and unconventional, polarising opinion at the time (2015).
Image – Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière
The brand’s renaissance continued with the release of further models. These were still highly original, still avant-garde, still tourbillons but less recherché. A reoccurring theme with Angelus models since the brand’s rebirth has been its predilection for titanium cases and skeletonised movements often featuring a beam-type design.
Angelus La Fabrique collection
In 2023, Angelus launched the ‘Chronographe Medical x Massena Lab’. A vintage-inspired ‘doctors’ watch’, it featured a pulsometer scale and, on this occasion, is equipped with a single pusher at 2 o’clock.
Image – Angelus Chronographe Medical x Massena Lab
The model looks very different from its space-age siblings, but no less virtuous. It is a stunning creation that has since been joined by the Instrument de Vitesse, executed in an array of colours. Together, this suite of retro-themed watches form ‘La Fabrique’ collection.
Manufacture La Joux-Perret
Today, the modern-day brand is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, operating from the same site as its sister company, Arnold & Son and parent company, Manufacture La Joux-Perret. As stated earlier, this latter firm is a movement specialist, crafting calibres for several brands. Having toured the Manufacture back in 2023, I can attest that the company’s watchmaking expertise is hugely impressive.
Angelus A-310 Calibre
Recently Angelus unveiled the Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition. When reading the associated press release, I noted it mentioned an ‘updated version of Angelus’s historical A-300 calibre’, the new A-310 Calibre.
As a devout horophile and someone who doesn’t get out much, I often spend an inordinate amount of time, trawling through old watch brochures and press releases. Delving into the ESCAPEMENT archives, I found details of the Angelus A-300 calibre. It first featured in an Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon, released back in 2018. This model had a maximum water resistance of 300 m and was housed in a titanium case. At the time, I liked the watch, albeit I concede it was large, measuring 45 mm in diameter and sporting two crowns on its right flank.
Image – Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon
The new Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition is much neater, just 42.5 mm in diameter and is equipped with a lone crown at 3 o’clock. I’ll return to the case later, but at this juncture, I wish to focus on the ‘recto’ side of the movement.
Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition – recto side of the movement
The new Calibre A-310 shares the same dimensions as the Calibre A-300 but looks very different. Whereas the Calibre A-300 featured straight, double-spoke beam-type plates and bridges, the new Calibre A-310 embraces arcing forms. Moreover, the new movement is dressed in eye-popping blue PVD and the power-reserve is now 60 hours, an improvement on the Calibre A-300 which was 55 hours.
Image – Calibre A-300 (recto view)
While some things are clearly different, the Calibre A-310, like its predecessor, showcases numerous components ordinarily hidden from view. For instance, the spring barrel, sans cover, is visible between 12 and 1 o’clock and grants sight of the mainspring. Likewise, the keyless works is presented in naked form and the small seconds resides at 9 o’clock.
Image – Calibre A-310 (recto view – cased)
As its name implies, this latest Angelus model features a flying tourbillon residing at the base of the multi-level dial. A ‘regular tourbillon’ features a cage supported by bridges above and below; however, a ‘flying tourbillon’ eschews the upper bridge. This affords superior views of the escapement, regulating organ and cage in motion. The mechanism is designed to mitigate gravity’s influence on the movement’s rate. Where the cage on the Calibre A-300 incorporated a straight arm spanning its form, the new movement features an asymmetric cage design. The tourbillon cage rotates 360° every minute.
Fulsome hour and minute hands are teamed with plump Arabic numerals, indicating the prevailing time. Both the hands and indexes are liberally coated in white Super-LumiNova, emitting a blue-green hue in dim light. A blue flange and minute track frame the display.
Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition – verso side of the movement
Viewing the Calibre A-310 via the exhibition caseback is equally fascinating. The arrangement of interwoven blue circles is punctuated with numerous wheels. The brand’s distinctive skeletonised six-spoke wheels are much in evidence, a design that confers both strength and eye-appeal. The crown-wheel is enriched with a sunray motif and sports the brand’s logo. Even the click, with its long curving profile, looks incredibly beautiful.
Image – Calibre A-300 (verso view)
The watch is available with a choice of alligator leather strap or titanium bracelet. Both options come with an additional rubber strap in the box which, courtesy of the model’s interchangeable bracelet system, can easily be fitted without the need for tools.
Image – Calibre A-310 (recto view – cased). Note interchangeable bracelet system
Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition – case
As you will have already ascertained, when it comes to the Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition, there is nothing ‘run-of-the-mill’ about its creation. The case perfectly demonstrates the extraordinary composition of this model. It is formed of two elements, a carbon composite container that shrouds the movement and a titanium outer body, composed of six parts. This marriage of materials and the assortment of parts proves incredibly light and notably strong.
The titanium bezel features 12 notches, while the crown nestles between the shoulders of a protector and has a blue ring encircling its torso. The case is satin-finished, while the faceted lugs feature polished chamfers. In common with the brand’s modern-day Chronodate models, the caseband is partially open-worked. Nothing about this watch is perfunctory.
Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition – closing remarks
Having worn several Angelus models since the rebirth of the brand, I confess to being an avowed fan. The company does not choose to emulate others but dares to think outside the box, creating luxury watches in its own unique style.
The U50 Diver Tourbillon was a superb watch, but the new Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition is even better. It is smaller, hence it should suit a greater number of wrists. But most of all, it is the intelligent use of colour, the innovative design of the bridges and mainplate and the ingenious two-part case construction that make this watch particularly impressive. Lastly, there is the matter of price. The Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition is not a cheap watch, but in the elevated and somewhat esoteric world of tourbillon ownership, CHF 45,000 (RRP as of 20.2.2025) represents remarkable value for money.
Further reading
https://www.angelus-watches.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition
- Reference: 0TSZF.U01A.M009T (titanium bracelet & rubber strap)
- Reference: 0TSZF.U02A.C009A (alligator strap & rubber strap)
- Case: titanium, diameter 42.5 mm, height 11.455 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres) sapphire crystals to the front and back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre A-310, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), contains 23 jewels, power reserve 60 hours
- Price: titanium bracelet & rubber strap – CHF 47,000 (RRP as of 20.2.2025)
- Price: alligator strap & rubber strap – CHF 45,000 (RRP as of 20.2.2025)