Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY Watch Review
The newly-released Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY, a limited edition of 200 pieces, captures the spirit of the ‘Quartz Chronometer’, the iconic sports-chic watch from 1975. While both models share a familial likeness, nothing stays the same. Indeed, in the spirit of continuous improvement, Girard-Perregaux has delivered advancement. It has refined the model’s lines, improved its specification and reminded horophiles of the Manufacture’s expertise in crafting sublime expressions of Haute Horlogerie.
Girard-Perregaux in the 1970s
Heraclitus, the ancient Greek philosopher (circa 500 BCE), famously said, “The only constant in life is change”. When looking back at the 1970s, these words seem most apt. The continual growth of the world economy after WWII came to a halt during the 70s. It was a period of widespread political turmoil, marked by double-digit inflation and a world oil crisis. The watch industry was not immune to the widespread economic malaise. Moreover, it also faced its own unique challenges, especially with the advent of quartz watches.
Suddenly, the quartz movement, a new means of controlling the hands of time, promised ease of use, incredible precision and, with the introduction of LED indications, an added sprinkle of sci-fi glamour. The arrival of quartz movements changed the horological landscape with many companies either unwilling or unable to adapt, culminating in their eventual demise.
While firmly rooted in making mechanical watches since the 18th century, Girard-Perregaux, always an innovative company, was at the vanguard of quartz timekeeping. Indeed, back in 1971, GP launched Switzerland’s first industrially produced wristwatch.
During this era, the Maison also recognised that consumer behaviour was changing. The watch was increasingly seen as an extension of one’s own personality. While precision was important, elegance and modernity were equally significant. Charles-Edouard Virchaux and Jean-Edouard Friedrich, were in charge of GP at the time. Recognising the changing consumer environment and sharing a common desire to redefine Swiss watchmaking, they sought to create a new model that would become a lasting signature of the brand.
The 1970s saw the emergence of the sports-chic watch. Functionality and beauty were essential prerequisites. Crisp lines, integrated bracelets, contrasting finishes and slender profiles were the order of the day. Some brands turned to external designers such as Gerald Genta to create new expressions of sports-chic luxury; however, Girard-Perregaux, a brand that has always ploughed its own furrow, chose to adopt a different approach. Rather than engage third parties, Girard-Perregaux opted to design, develop and produce its sports-chic creation entirely in-house.
Girard-Perregaux also differentiated itself from other brands by equipping its inaugural watch with a quartz movement, drawing on its amassed expertise in this area. Rival watches were equipped with mechanical movements, hence they failed to match the svelteness or precision of GP’s initial Laureato. The first model, the fittingly-named ‘Quartz Chronometer’ was a COSC-certified chronometer. Delivering extraordinary precision, the 1975 Quartz Chronometer became known as the ‘Graduate’ (Laureato in Italian) among the cognoscenti.
Now, keen to mark the 50th anniversary of its iconic sports-chic watch, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled the Laureato FIFTY, a model that pays tribute to the past while providing an insight into the Manufacture’s future. This timepiece, limited to just 200 pieces, incorporates some design elements first seen on the 1975 watch, but refined to an elevated level. Allow me to elaborate.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY – dial
The dial is executed in sunray grey and adorned with a ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern. At first glance, it bears a close resemblance to the 1975 watch; however, upon closer inspection, it reveals a plethora of details, heightening the perception of luxury. The golden baton-style hands are wider and are now lined with luminescent material, two characteristics that enhance readability. The golden indexes unite polished and satin finishes, while the new design eschews the GP initials found at 12 o’clock on the original, in favour of double batons.
Throughout the dial, subtle touches heighten visual appeal. For example, the centre seconds hand is now endowed with an arrow-shaped counterweight, a hat-tip to the brand’s logo. The date display at 3 o’clock is crisply delineated with a slope profile frame. Unlike the 1975 model, the date disc on the Laureato FIFTY matches the dominant dial hue as horological etiquette dictates.
When contrasted with the 1975 model, the dial of the Laureato FIFTY eschews the company’s name between 11 and 1 o’clock and ‘Quartz Chronometer’ previously proclaimed at the base of the dial. Instead, the dial on the new model carries merely the company’s name and logo, granting a cleaner aesthetic.
A smooth minute track fringes the dial. Executed in grey, matching the main dial area, the track is marked with crisp golden lines which, in collaboration with the elongated centre seconds hand, confer ease of read-off.
It is the sublime arrangement of textures, tones and depths which imbues the dial with a nuanced complexion that charmingly flirts with light.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY – case
Throughout its history, Girard-Perregaux has played with different shapes, once again, cleverly orchestrating the appearance of light. In 1969, the Swiss marque unveiled the Deep Diver collection. While intended to be highly functional and capable of underwater use, the Deep Diver did not forgo style. On the contrary, it featured a handsome cushion-shaped case and sported a 14 sided bezel.
The Laureato of 1975 measured 35 mm in diameter, tapping into the horological zeitgeist of the 70s. Embracing several contrasting forms, the watch featured an octagonal bezel resting upon a circular plinth, mounted atop a tonneau-shaped case. The complex arrangement of shapes, levels and finishes, when combined, culminated in a harmonious composition. Moreover, it went on to fulfil Virchaux and Friedrich’s aims of creating a brand signature. Indeed, over the last 50 years, the Laureato has become familiar to legions of watch aficionados; an iconic design that’s instantly recognisable from a distance.
While justifiably proud of its heritage and notable achievements, Girard-Perregaux is not a brand that chooses to languish in the past. In fact, the company has continued to revisit the Laureato, evolving its design, embracing new materials, introducing new complications and, quite simply, pursuing advancement. The new Laureato FIFTY is the distillation of 234 years of know-how.
Measuring 39.00 mm, the new model is tailored to suit modern-day tastes. It’s sufficiently large to ensure all indications are simple to read without burdening the wrist with unnecessary bulk. When placed adjacent to the Laureato of 1975, the profile of the case has slightly evolved, accentuating its tonneau shape. Likewise, when viewed from the side, the union between the case and bracelet is more angular and sharper.
With a nod to the past, the case and bracelet of the Laureato FIFTY embrace a two-tone aesthetic, uniting steel with 18-carat 3N yellow gold. Consistent with ideals of true luxury, these materials are employed with a keen attention to detail. For instance, the bezel now reaches the leading edge of the case, making the design appear fresher. Furthermore, the bevelled edge gracing the upper section of the case now extends to the bracelet, reducing in magnitude with each tapered link. The octagonal bezel is more fulsome and features brushed upper surfaces and polished bevelled edges, while the circular plinth also evinces a polished gleam.
When viewed from the side, the case middle measures a mere 5 mm in height. The bezel and caseback appear to mirror one another, providing a dose of seemly symmetry. The sloping sides of the exhibition caseback nuzzle the fleshy part of the wearer’s wrist, contributing to the impressive levels of wearer comfort. The watch has an overall thickness of 9.80 mm.
Every touchpoint of the case exudes finesse. For example, the octagonal crown, echoing the shape of the bezel, features a satin brushed grip, while the vertical flank is highly polished and sports the brand’s initials.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY – bracelet
No element of this watch appears to be repurposed from a past model. The bracelet is a wholly new design neatly integrating with the case. Comprising domed gold links at its centre and framed by flat stainless steel H-shape links, the bracelet juxtaposes warmth and cool looks. When inspecting the bracelet between the forefinger and thumb, its complexity becomes even more apparent with additional details suddenly coming to the fore.
Smoothly flowing from the watch head, the bracelet’s steel H-shape links are satin brushed with gleaming bezels and taper in width as they near the folding clasp, following the natural curvature of the wrist. Two sliding pieces, one either side of the clasp, allow the wearer to lengthen the bracelet by 2 or 4 mm; a useful attribute when wrists expand on sultry days.
The triple folding clasp bears the GP logo, which is also repeated on the inner blades. Once again, the brand’s in-house design team has referenced the shape of the bezel, equipping the clasp of the bracelet with octagonal pushpieces. The sense of cohesion is manifest throughout.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY – Calibre GP 4800
Recently, the Manufacture unveiled the Calibre GP 4800, a clean-sheet design brimming with attributes. At the time of its release, the Maison did not specify where this new movement would feature; however, with the advent of the Laureato FIFTY, all speculation has ended.
I wrote extensively about the Calibre GP 4800 at the time it was launched, safe to say this automatic movement harnesses all of GP’s savoir-faire, expressed in neoteric form. It is beautifully crafted, incorporating ten different types of finishing and features an array of technical highlights, including a variable-inertia balance, silicium escapement and a ‘whisper-quiet winding system’.
Closing remarks
A valuable treasure should only be entrusted to a suitable custodian. The inherent danger with having an iconic watch within a brand’s portfolio is losing the essence of what made the original special. Thankfully, the management team at the Swiss watch firm knows what it’s doing. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY clearly respects the beloved design codes of the original model.
However, since 1791, Girard-Perregaux has continuously sought to celebrate shapes, play with depths, impart flawless finishing to components and make its products increasingly desirable. In creating the Laureato FIFTY, the Maison has retained the spirit of the original while delivering tangible progress. The inclusion of the brand’s new ultra-refined movement, the Calibre GP 4800, demonstrates that change is not only inevitable, it can sometimes prove incredibly compelling.
Further reading
https://www.girard-perregaux.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY
- Reference: 81008-63-3412-1CM
- Case: 3N yellow gold and stainless steel, diameter 39 mm, height 9.80 mm, water resistance 15 ATM (150 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre GP 4800, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 19 jewels, 163 components, power-reserve min. 55 hours
- Strap: 3N yellow gold and steel bracelet fitted with a triple-folding clasp with up to 4 mm of fine adjustment
- Price: £22,700 (RRP as of 28.11.2025)
- Limited Edition: 200 pieces