Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGW267
Recent GPHG award-winning brand, Grand Seiko has released two new models specifically for the European market, the Elegance Collection SBGW267 (Asakage) and the SBGW269 (Yukage). Angus Davies discusses these new models along with the brand’s continued success.
Last week, Grand Seiko won the ‘Men’s Watch Prize’ at the GPHG awards (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève). The silverware was justly deserved. This model, the Heritage Hi-Beat SLGH005, is endowed with a distortion-free zaratsu-polished case and features a wonderfully textured white birch dial, two characteristics that make a compelling reason for acquisition.
However, in my opinion, the self-winding movement, the Caliber 9SA5, is the pièce de résistance. It features a free-sprung balance, an overcoil, a dual-impulse escapement, twin barrels and operates at 5Hz, a comparatively high frequency. Once again, the specification of this movement demonstrates the brand’s technical expertise and, along with the advent of some additional creations, its desire to position itself at a higher level.
An interesting characteristic of Grand Seiko is that it makes watches for global distribution as well as models produced for specific local markets. As a self-confessed Grand Seiko fan, I have drooled over several US-only models, mindful they will never reach British shores. Recently, American horophiles have been indulged with the release of three new references, each sporting a green dial, albeit all executed in different shades (SBGW273, SBGW275 and SBGW277). Measuring 37.3mm in diameter and equipped with the firm’s hand-wound Caliber 9S64 movement, I suspect queues would readily form if the models arrived in Blighty.
However, don’t despair, as the Japanese marque has also recently unveiled two new models specifically for the European market, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGW267 aka Asakage and its sibling the SBGW269 aka Yukage. Apart from the dial colours, the models are near-identical to the aforementioned stateside specials.
These European-exclusive models also feature the Caliber 9S64. Despite this latter movement lacking some of the headline-grabbing attributes of the Caliber 9SA5, the hand-wound Caliber 9S64 offers impressive precision and a decent power-reserve. Moreover, the SBGW267 and SBGW269 are keenly priced at £4150 (RRP as at 10.11.2021).
Inevitably, there will be GS obsessives in some parts of the world frustrated they are unable to purchase a particular reference by virtue of where they live. However, a degree of pent up demand heightens the cachet of a luxury brand, something Grand Seiko clearly knows much about. Indeed, beyond its watchmaking prowess, the Japanese marque has a remarkable talent for marketing.
The brand’s press release
Two Grand Seiko watches inspired by the subtle shades of light and shadow in Japanese architecture.
Created in 1960 in Japan, Grand Seiko is an expert watchmaker of discretion and simplicity, crafting perfection in every detail. A select team of master watchmakers assemble and adjust each Grand Seiko watch by hand, as they look into the rich natural environment that surrounds their watchmaking studios.
All Grand Seiko watches embody the Japanese affinity for nature in the precision of their movements and the natural beauty of their design and reflect aspects of art and culture unique to Japan.
These two novelties, exclusive to the European market, are inspired by the interplay of light and shadow that is an essential characteristic of traditional Japanese architecture.
Japanese architecture as an inspiration
The use of shadow has long featured prominently in Japanese architecture where the beauty of shade is celebrated in its spaces and corners. This is a direct result of the impact of the climate and geography of Japan on the construction of buildings.
As Japanese buildings are often made of wood and, given the high humidity and frequent rains with which the country is blessed, their support pillars would not last long enough if exposed directly to the elements. Therefore, roofs were built to cover them completely, with overhanging eaves of up to two to three meters.
As a result, only light entering horizontally under the eaves could illuminate the interior and many areas within these buildings were necessarily in shade.
The skill of the architects lay in turning this functional requirement into an opportunity for artistic expression and, over the centuries, a unique style of building, found only in Japan, was developed in which the interplay of light and shadow played a central role.
The shōji, a major component of Japanese architecture which capture natural light
Central to this aesthetic is the shōji, a moveable paper screen which is placed where it can diffuse light to maximum artistic effect. The shōji is made by covering a wooden lattice with a traditional Japanese paper called washi and is used for windows, doors and even exterior walls. Natural light coming in from under the eaves is captured by the shōji to create a stable and beautiful surface light which diffuses gently and widely into each room, brightening all of it and yet allowing the shaded areas to retain a special mystery and charm.
“Asakage” and “Yukage.” Expressions of Light and Shadow
In these two new timepieces, Grand Seiko offers its own view of the Nature of Time and a uniquely Japanese aesthetic as both versions of this watch from the Elegance Collection,
SBGW267 and SBGW269, take their inspiration from these elements of Japanese architecture.
SBGW267 evokes the image of “Asakage”, the dazzling morning sunlight that is absorbed by the shōji and softly illuminates the entire room, while SBGW269, designed in the image of “Yukage”, the faint orange light of dusk that the shōji absorbs, filling the room with warmth.
Traditional inspiration and state of the art watchmaking
Simplicity, elegance and function meet in a timepiece.
Both references feature a curved dial bestowed with a special washi pattern with its uniquely graceful, fibre-rich texture.
As light reflects off the dial a delicate gradation is created, achieving a gentle harmony with the classical form of the highly polished case with its box-shaped sapphire crystal.
The watches are presented on finely textured calfskin straps whose delicate shades are achieved by overlaying a second layer of colour on top of the first which is then progressively wiped away, creating a soft texture and tone that blend perfectly with the overall design.
The hour and minute hands are gently curved to follow the contours of the dial, ensuring high legibility.
Both versions are powered by Calibre 9S64, a manual winding mechanical movement that offers a stable and high level of precision and a power reserve of three days when fully wound.
It has a beautiful appearance with a sense of unity unique to manual winding movements.
Further reading