Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 and SBGE283 – Evolution 9 Collection
The Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 and its sibling, the SBGE283, are two new additions to the brand’s Evolution 9 Collection. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, both models are equipped with a GMT function and feature a super-precise Spring Drive movement. Angus Davies, a brand devotee shares his observations.
In the beginning
The inaugural Grand Seiko watch was unveiled in 1960. Traditional in appearance, it measured 35mm in diameter and was equipped with a hand-wound movement with a cadence of 18,000 vph (2.5Hz). Dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands collaborated with applied indexes to convey the time clearly. The model was a chronometer and the dial was marked with the text ‘Diashock 25 jewels.’ Interestingly, there was no catchy name, however, over time aficionados have increasingly referred to the watch by its movement, the reference 3180. These early models have now become very collectible.
Image – Reference 3180 (1960)
Prior to its unveiling, the brief for Grand Seiko was that it should be the ultimate expression of Seiko ownership. The team assigned with its creation had to adhere to strict principles, namely ‘precision, legibility and beauty’. Furthermore, each watch needed to be comfortable to wear, durable and practical.
Image – Reference 3180 platinum (1960)
Evolution – the pursuit of continuous improvement
In 1964, Grand Seiko released its first hand-wound watch equipped with a date function. Three years later, in 1967, the Japanese marque unveiled its inaugural automatic watch. Furthermore, it also released the ‘44GS’, a model that would strongly influence the design of future Grand Seiko watches.
Image – 44GS (1967)
From the outset, the notion of ‘continuous improvement’ has been a fundamental element of the GS paradigm. For example, the brand released three ‘Hi-Beat’ models in 1960, including an automatic model (61GS), a manual version (45GS) and a ladies’ reference (19GS). The balance within all three models had a cadence of 36,000 vph (5Hz).
There are a few potential problems with high frequency movements. These include increased wear, high lubricant consumption and often a reduced power-reserve. It is for these reasons many brands don’t offer high frequency movements. However, Grand Seiko surmounted all of these obstacles and has since gained an esteemed reputation for its HI-BEAT models. The benefits associated with high frequency movements include superior rate stability and less susceptibility to positional errors.
During the 1970s, Seiko engineer, Yoshikazu Akahane, had the inspired idea of combining traditional mechanical watchmaking with electronic technology. Akahane spent over 25 years developing the know-how before the first Seiko watch featuring his ‘Spring Drive’ movement (SBWA001) was unveiled in 1999. Five years later, in 2004, a Spring Drive movement featured in a Grand Seiko watch for the first time.
Similar to a watch equipped with a Swiss lever escapement, the mainspring is tensioned either manually or using an oscillating weight (automatic). The torque generated is then transferred by a series of wheels termed the ‘gear train’. However, this is where the similarities end.
With a conventional mechanical watch, the torque from the gear train is sent to the escapement. The escapement fulfils two roles: providing an impulse to the balance wheel, causing it to oscillate, and locking/unlocking the gear train, thereby controlling the flow of time.
The Spring Drive system is incredibly ingenious. Some of the torque from the mainspring is sent to the ‘Tri-Synchro Regulator’, a component which converts mechanical power into electrical power before sending it to a crystal oscillator (quartz). The oscillator then sends a signal to an electromagnetic brake which in turn controls the ‘glide wheel’. This latter wheel rotates eight times per second, controlling the flow of time. The benefit of a Spring Drive system is that it delivers far superior precision when compared with a conventional Swiss lever escapement. Furthermore, while the central sweep seconds hand on a watch fitted with a Swiss lever escapement has a busy gait, advancing forward in short steps, the hand on a Spring Drive watch glides smoothly, appearing wonderfully serene.
Evolution 9 Collection – a new era
Grand Seiko has never rested on its laurels. Indeed, it has repeatedly innovated and refined its products. In 2020, the company released the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH002. Housed in an 18-carat yellow gold case, the timepiece is blessed with a pulchritudinous mien. However, in my opinion, the pièce de resistance is its automatic movement, the Calibre 9SA5. Unlike its counterparts, the movement features a dual impulse escapement in combination with a hi-frequency balance (5Hz). The dual impulse escapement consumes less energy, a fact that’s reflected in its prodigious 80-hour power reserve. Additional refinements include a free-sprung balance, overcoil, horizontal gear train and impressive finishing.
Image – Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH002 (2020)
Last year, the Japanese marque released the SLGH005 with an unusual, textured dial ‘inspired by the beauty of white birch forests.’ Equipped with the previously mentioned Calibre 9SA5 movement, the watch combines mechanical virtuosity with exquisite habillage. The dial emulates the appearance of ‘Shirakaba’, the white birch trees that grow near the company’s Shizukuishi atelier. The 40mm stainless steel case is subject to the brand’s legendary Zaratsu polishing technique, culminating in a super-smooth, distortion-free finish.
The advent of the SLGH005 signalled a new era in GS design, the ‘Evolution 9 Style’. The design language respects the brand’s patrimony while embracing some new contemporary elements. Grand Seiko’s design team has masterfully played with light and shade as well as the many tones in between. The upper edge of the bezel on the SLGH005 features a brushed finish, termed ‘hairline finish’, providing contrast with the case. In Japan there is a widespread appreciation of nature, something that is manifest with the dial of the SLGH005.
Image – SLGH005 (2021)
Another noticeable difference with the SLGH005 and many of its forebears relates to the advancement of dial legibility. Indeed, in the spirit of continuous improvement, the Japanese marque has expended much effort improving the readability of its latest dials. For example, the hands are bolder and now feature truncated tips and the indexes feature a greater number of facets and exhibit a three-dimensional appearance. Furthermore, the case design has evolved. It now has a lower centre of gravity and wide lugs ensuring the watch sits securely upon the wrist, conferring superior levels of comfort.
Shortly after its release, the SLGH005 came to the attention of the watch world and won the ‘Men’s Watch Prize’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Since the advent of the SLGH005, the Evolution 9 Collection has grown and it now encompasses a number of models which are equipped with either a dual-impulse escapement or Spring Drive system. Now, the brand has released the Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285, a neoteric timepiece endowed with a Spring Drive movement.
The Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 – part of the Evolution 9 Collection
Grand Seiko has unveiled two models at Watches & Wonders which share the same specification save for their dials. The Grand Seiko SBGE283 features a smooth black dial whereas the SGBE285 is presented with a light grey textured dial. It is this latter reference which I have chosen to focus upon hereafter.
Image – SBGE283
The dial
The hour and minute hands subscribe to the ‘Evolution 9’ style and, at first glance, they resemble the hands fitted to the SLGH002. However, look more closely and you will notice they are lined with ‘Lumibrite’, a treatment designed to enhance readability in dim light. The indexes feature a central strip of Lumibrite sandwiched between gleaming brightwork. The edges are facetted and readily engage with available light. The index at noon is double-width, distinguishing it from other hour markers.
Grand Seiko is synonymous with making watches encompassing textured dials. Indeed, its ‘Snowflake dial’ is legendary and is highly prized by horophiles. The dial on the Mistflake SBGE285 is beautifully appointed and, according to the brand, was ‘inspired by the morning mist in winter in the Shinshu region, often a harbinger of a sunny day.’ Furthermore, the grey hue is an unusual shade rarely used in the watch industry, providing an interesting point of difference.
The watch is equipped with a GMT function, a highly useful complication, especially for frequent flyers. The ‘local time’ is displayed with the dominant hour and minute hands. The ‘home time’ is indicated with a black hand equipped with a luminescent tip. The hand is used in conjunction with the bezel which is marked with a 24-hour scale and serves as a useful means of indicating whether the hour at home is day or night. In the image shown, the GMT hand indicates that the home time is just after 1000 hours. Grand Seiko has chosen not to dress the GMT hand in vibrant hues, a decision I concur with.
While much discussion is about ‘new’, the date indication is pleasingly familiar. For many years, Grand Seiko has optimised the font and scale of each numeral in order to deliver the best readability.
Positioned between 8 and 9 o’clock, a power-reserve indicator reveals the status of the mainspring. A minute track is presented on the dial flange encircling the display.
The case
Measuring 41mm in diameter, the Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 should suit most would-be wearers. Both the case and bracelet are made from high-intensity titanium. According to the brand, the material is ‘about 30% lighter than stainless steel and brighter in colour.’ However, titanium also offers additional benefits. For example, it is anti-magnetic and hypoallergenic.
The SBGE285 is designed to be sporty, hence the lugs are wider and the bracelets is more robust. Certainly, the brand has expended much energy looking at the ergonomics of the watch head, eager to provide the optimum wrist feel. The case and bracelet are designed to deliver a low centre of gravity, ensuring the watch sits securely and comfortably upon the wrist. Moreover, the curved profile of the case also contributes to a cossetting union with the wearer’s arm.
When designing the bezel with its 24-hour scale, Grand Seiko conceived a new font. The chosen typeface contributes to the model’s contemporary feel and proves effortless to read. The lugs incorporate a prominent bevelled edge. On the right flank of the case, this bevelled edge continues all the way to the crown guard which has been ‘designed to avoid being caught by sleeves in both sport activities and everyday use’.
To the rear of the watch, a see-through case back affords sight of the Spring Drive 9R66 movement.
The movement
The Calibre 9R66 was first unveiled in 2006, just two years after the inaugural Spring Drive movement, the Calibre 9R65, was released. Quite simply, the movement is tried and tested and much loved by watch aficionados.
When contrasted with a conventional mechanical watch, a Spring Drive movement delivers far superior precision. For example, the Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 delivers accuracy to ± 15 seconds per month.
Assuming the movement is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for up to 72 hours.
Closing remarks
Ever since 1960, when Grand Seiko released its first watch, the company has never ceased innovating. Over the years, the company and its products have evolved. Indeed, the brand’s continuous progression was referenced in 2021 with the introduction of the aptly named Evolution 9 Collection.
Grand Seiko continues to offer Heritage, Masterpiece and Sport collections, however, at this year’s Watches & Wonders, the firm has placed a strong emphasis on expanding its Evolution 9 Collection. While each of its ‘novelties’ has its own distinct specification and personality, they all subscribe to contemporary design. Furthermore, each new reference upholds the original aims of the brand, ‘precision, legibility and beauty’.
While Bauhaus is associated with the ‘form follows function’ philosophy, Grand Seiko’s approach is different. Indeed, form and function share equal importance, but at the same time the brand also likes to reference nature with its designs.
The dials of the Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 and SBGE283 are beautiful, albeit my personal favourite is the SBGE285’s exquisitely textured grey canvas. When the Japanese firm introduced the inaugural member of the Evolution 9 Collection, the SLGH005, I was struck by the cosetting embrace of the watch as it encircled my wrist. These latest models perpetuate this wrist pampering, paying close attention to ergonomics. And, finally, the tried and trusted Calibre 9R66 provides a repeat performance, delivering notable precision and a serene, gliding seconds hand.
As history has shown, Grand Seiko never stands still. Indeed, the brand is an ardent devotee of continuous improvement and repeatedly demonstrates its unwavering desire to augment customer delight.
Further reading
https://www.grandseikoboutique.uk/
Technical specifications
- Model: Grand Seiko Mistflake SBGE285 and SBGE283
- Case: high-intensity titanium case; diameter 41mm; height 13.9mm; water resistance 10ATM (100 metres); box-shaped sapphire crystal to front; sapphire caseback.
- Functions: hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date; power-reserve indicator; GMT
- Movement: Spring Drive GMT 9R66; Self-winding movement; 30 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
- Strap: high-intensity titanium bracelet with 3-fold clasp with push button release.
- Price: £7,290 (RRP as at 30.3.2022)