Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar Watch Review
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar is the latest creation from the brand synonymous with producing calendar watches. Sharing the same movement as the Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar of 2019, a watch that subsequently scooped an award at the GPHG the following year, this latest model looks stunning. Subscribing to the Tonda PF design language first seen in 2021, this latest creation is neater and is blessed with a gorgeous ‘viridian green’ dial. With Watches & Wonders around the corner, Angus Davies contemplates what this ambitious brand has up its sleeve.
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
In the world of fine watches, calendar watches are arranged in a hierarchical structure starting with the simplest and ascending in complexity. Before discussing the focal point of this article, the latest creation from Parmigiani Fleurier, I think it is necessary to provide an overview of calendar watches.
Complete Calendar
For some complication-hungry watch fanatics, a complete calendar proves the perfect timepiece. A complete calendar will typically indicate the day, date, month and moon phase. The best examples say much in a concise way. The drawback with a complete calendar is that when a month has fewer than 31 days, the date necessitates manual correction.
Annual Calendar
The annual calendar can distinguish between those months containing 30 or 31 days and automatically advance the date to the ‘1st’ without manual intervention. However, an annual calendar still requires manual correction, albeit just once per year, to advance the date to the 1st of March.
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
Perpetual Calendar
A perpetual calendar is widely considered a high complication and for some the ultimate calendar watch. Unlike an annual calendar, the movement has the mechanical intellect to identify the length of each month, irrespective of whether it is a common year or a leap year, advancing to the 1st of each month without the need for manual correction. Most perpetual calendars are equipped with a leap-year indicator serving as an additional aide-memoire and helping the wearer when adjustment is required eg after a period of inactivity.
However, should you wear your perpetual calendar and keep the barrel(s) topped up, there will be no need to touch the calendar indications until 2100. At this point, largely academic for most of us, the watch will require manual adjustment. The Gregorian calendar omits three leap years every 400 years to remain aligned with solar time. This means that a perpetual calendar requires manual correction in 2100, 2200 and 2300 but not in 2400 (a leap year).
Parmigiani Fleurier – calendars specialists
Parmigiani Fleurier is synonymous with crafting fine watches and exquisite expressions of Haute Horlogerie. A vertically integrated company, it not only makes Manufacture movements but also produces dials, cases and bracelets. Parmigiani Fleurier even makes its own escapements and regulating organs, a rare talent in the world of watchmaking.
With its impressive back catalogue, it should come as no surprise to learn that the prestigious Swiss marque has created examples of all three of the aforementioned types of calendar watches. However, the Maison has also looked beyond the Gregorian calendar to alternative calendars favoured in different parts of the world and produced timepieces that follow lunar, solar or lunarsolar time.
In 1993, Michel Parmigiani, one of the world’s finest restorers of automata, clocks and watches, worked on a Renaissance oval-shaped watch endowed with an Islamic calendar. Later, in 2011, inspired by said pocket watch, he revealed a table clock incorporating a Hijri Calendar.
Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar (2019)
Despite its complexity, Parmigiani Fleurier miniaturised the Hijri Calendar clock, releasing a version of it in wristwatch form back in 2019. The Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar, despite its numerous indications, was easy on the eye, combining an agreeable slate-hued dial with a 44.5 mm platinum case.
A tour de force, rich in mechanical ingenuity and blessed with a prepossessing appearance, the Parmigiani Fleurier Hijri Perpetual Calendar won the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Hologerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2020.
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF (2021)
In August 2021, the Swiss marque unveiled the Tonda PF collection. Comprising several models in various metals, including steel (with a platinum bezel), 18-carat rose gold and, in one instance, platinum, the collection reimagined the sports timepiece, incorporating a degree of elegance usually the preserve of dress watches.
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
Initially, the collection comprised of four models, namely the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, Tonda PF Chronograph, Tonda PF Annual Calendar and the top of the range Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph in platinum. Warmly received by the press, trade and watch aficionados alike, the Tonda PF has proved a remarkable success, leading to the Maison releasing additional references.
In 2023, Parmigiani Fleurier enlarged the Tonda PF collection to include the Xiali Calendar. Also known as the Chinese Calendar, the Xiali Calendar combines elements of both the solar and lunar calendar which are calculated separately and then synchronised. I wrote extensively about the watch at the time, which, despite its complexity measures just 42 mm in diameter, a modest figure, especially considering it displays the complete Chinese calendar and moon phase.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
Building on the success of the Tonda PF collection, the prestigious watch brand from the Val-de-Travers, has now released the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar. The watch features the Calibre PF009 automatic movement that was employed on the prize-winning watch of 2019 but subscribes to the brand’s Tonda PF design language.
Despite brimming with much complexity, this latest model is smaller than its antecedent of 2019 measuring just 42 mm in diameter (previous model 44.5 mm) and just 11.2 mm in height (previous model 14.09 mm).
Having worn several other Tonda PF models, I can attest that, courtesy of their ergonomic case and bracelet, they confer impressive wearer comfort. I would expect the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar to share this attribute, albeit I will reserve final judgement until I have the opportunity for a ‘hands-on’ encounter.
The case upholds Tonda PF tradition uniting a stainless steel case with a platinum bezel. The two materials deliver a subtle contrast with the noble metal appearing silvery-white. On this occasion, the Maison has paired this understated case and bracelet ensemble with a ‘viridian green’ dial adorned with Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché. The resultant aesthetic is simply gorgeous.
Watches & Wonders 2024
Next month, collectors, the press and members of the watch trade will descend on Geneva for the annual Watches & Wonders fair. A must-see spectacle for horophiles, many brands will exhibit their latest models, showcasing their design prowess and technical expertise. Based on the excellence of this new model, its siblings and forebears, I can’t wait to see what Parmgiani Fleurier has in store this year.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
- Reference: PFH983-1020001-100182
- Case: stainless steel with platinum bezel, diameter 42 mm, height 11.2 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, Hijiri perpetual calendar, precision moon phase
- Movement: Calibre PF009, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 32 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, 310 components.
- Bracelet: polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with steel folding clasp
- Price: CHF 62,500 including VAT (RRP as of 11.3.2024)