TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date sits alongside the Aquaracer Professional 300. Angus Davies gets ‘hands-on’ with the new 200 model and examines its specification in detail.
TAG Heuer review
TAG Heuer has been exceptionally busy in recent years, creating several limited-edition versions of its iconic Monaco model, updating the Carrera and, last year, releasing an updated version of its divers’ watch, the Aquaracer Professional 300.
Despite these models proving highly popular, the brand saw fit to revisit them. I remember wondering at the time why it had chosen to update the Carrera and questioned the reason for changing such a fabulous watch. However, once I affixed the new updated model to my wrist, I knew the answer and understood its rationale. The Swiss avant-garde brand has refined every element of the Carrera, making subtle revisions to its specification. This uplift in quality was something the company repeated with the updated Aquaracer.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300
Launched last year, each constituent part had clearly been assessed and, invariably, improved. Readability, style, tactility and wearer comfort were all enhanced. Indeed, even the click produced by the rotating bezel was more audible.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date
Until a few weeks ago, I thought TAG Heuer’s portfolio of divers’ watches was complete and then, seemingly from nowhere, the watch firm unveiled the Aquaracer Professional 200. This latest model is offered in a multitude of ownership options including automatic and quartz models. Furthermore, would-be wearers are indulged with a choice of 40 mm and 30 mm variants.
Personally, I was attracted to the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date WBP2111.BA0627. This reference features a blue dial, a 40 mm stainless steel case and an automatic movement, the tried and tested Calibre 5. The brand kindly offered to provide me with a sample of the watch and a week-long period of evaluation soon ensued.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date – dial
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date is available with a black or blue dial. I must confess, I have a weakness for blue dials and this particular example doesn’t disappoint. Sometimes described as a ‘degradé’ dial, the central area is cerulean blue and transitions to Royal Blue, appearing almost black adjacent the minute track. Moreover, the various hues presented morph into other tones of blue depending on the available light. The dynamic quality of the dial surface proves fascinating to behold.
Appraising this composition and contrasting it with the Aquaracer Professional 300 it soon becomes apparent that there are many differences between the two models. In some firms, the ‘bean counters’ often talk of economies of scale, however, it’s clear that such ideas have not been countenanced at TAG Heuer. Indeed, Guy Bove, TAG Heuer’s Creative Director, and his colleagues in the company’s design department have sought to give the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date its own distinct personality. For example, the hour and minute hands look very different from those fitted to the Aquaracer Professional 300. Likewise, the 8-sided indexes used on the Aquaracer Professional 300 have been set aside in favour of trapezoidal indexes.
The hands and indexes on the Aquaracer Professional 200 have received a liberal application of Super-LumiNova. The indexes and the hour hand exhibit a green glow in dim light, while the minute hand and the lollipop affixed to the central sweep seconds hand emit a contrasting shade of blue. With regard to the central sweep seconds hand, the design looks identical to the Aquaracer Professional 300, one of the few details the siblings share in common.
A date display is located at 6 o’clock instead of the more common 3 o’clock position, granting a more symmetrical appearance. This is a design philosophy the brand is introducing on all new models moving forward. Unlike the 300, there is no magnifying lens sitting above the date disc. Moreover, the date disc is black, not white. Certainly, there is little evidence that any bean counting has taken place.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date – case
With a divers’ watch, dimensions are inextricably linked to water resistance. As the wearer ventures deeper underwater, the prevailing pressure increases and the exterior of the watch case is subject to greater, potentially crushing forces. In order to explore depths of say 500m, a bulkier case may prove necessary.
Like many individuals, I’m a ‘desk diver’ and highly unlikely to wear a wetsuit and strap a scuba tank to my back. However, the reason why I, and legions of other horophiles, adore divers’ watches is that they prove robust, highly legible and offer a useful degree of water resistance.
Image – TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300
Based on the existence of the ‘desk diver’ market segment, the release of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date makes much sense. It will ably meet most would-be wearers’ requirements and because it is not intended to go beyond 200m underwater, the case can afford to be a bit smaller too. Indeed, at just 40mm in diameter, the reduced dimensions of the 200 will suit many buyers who don’t need the additional bulk of a 300. A further benefit of the 200 is that it’s slightly cheaper. However, don’t misconstrue, ‘smaller’ and ‘cheaper’ does not mean inferior.
A close examination of the case reveals some exquisite details. The case predominantly features vertically brushed surfaces, but the thin bevelled edge at the top of the caseband is highly polished. This subtle detail heightens production costs, but it also enriches the overall appearance. Moreover, this strip of brightwork endows the watch head with a seemingly slimmer profile.
To the rear of the case, the caseback of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date sports a compass rose motif in place of the diver’s helmet engraving found on the 300.
Similar to the 300, the bezel on this latest model features a 12-facet design. Likewise, the bezels on both the 200 and 300 are unidirectional and include a ‘count-up’ scale. However, the bezel on the 200 is brushed steel while the 300 features a ceramic bezel. Certainly, ceramic is less prone to scratching than steel, but I found the 200’s monochromatic bezel very attractive. While there are some differences between the bezels on the 200 and 300, I wouldn’t say one is superior to the other. Both bezels rotate wonderfully, conferring a positive feel and, as stated earlier, this motion comes with an audible clicking soundtrack. Lastly, the bezel is enlivened with a gleaming bevelled edge.
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date is presented on a 3-rows bracelet. The outer rows are finely brushed, while the central row is highly polished. This arrangement is replicated on the folding clasp. A small criticism of the clasp is that the central area is liable to pick up the odd superficial scratch. Nevertheless, this would not dissuade me from purchasing the watch as it has many qualities in its favour. The Swiss brand’s decision to present areas of the bracelet in burnished form makes the watch feel less utilitarian and more dressy, making it ideal for formal occasions.
One characteristic common to all updated TAG Heuer models relates to the relationship between the watch and the wearer’s wrist. The brand has deliberately made the bracelets on the 200 and 300 thinner. This is not a covert means of saving a few Swiss francs, but rather a way of improving wearer comfort. Indeed, by making the links thinner, the bracelet is more flexible and follows ‘the natural curvature of every wearer’s wrist’. Certainly, having worn the watch for several days, I can attest the impressive ergonomics make a strong case for acquisition.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date – Calibre 5
Both the 200 and 300 share the same self-winding movement, the Calibre 5 Automatic. This movement has remained unchanged for some time and is widely known for its reliability. Both models are fitted with a solid caseback, as divers’ watch convention dictates, therefore, I have been unable to critique the finishing of the movement.
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and, assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the movement will run autonomously for 38 hours.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date – closing thoughts
In some ways, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date is a natural competitor of the Aquaracer Professional 300 and I’m sure the arrival of the 200 may steal some sales from the 300. However, I think the Swiss brand was justified in enlarging its portfolio of subaquatic-themed watches. From a consumer’s perspective, I don’t think you can ever have too much choice.
The reduced case diameter of the 200 is better suited to non-diving tasks. In particular, this watch is perfectly at home in a formal setting and provides an appropriate accoutrement to a lounge suit. The 200’s specification fulfils the requirements of the ‘desk diver’ and, for most buyers, its reduced water resistance will not be an issue.
The Aquaracer has always been a highly popular model over the years, however, it’s probably not received the same recognition as the Carrera and Monaco models. Nevertheless, based on the brilliance of the 200 and 300, I genuinely think this may change. Indeed, just in the way the Carrera and Monaco have been associated with the octane-rich environment of motorsport, the Aquaracer has the potential to make TAG Heuer the go-to brand for divers’ watches.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date
- References: WBP2111.BA0627
- Case: stainless steel; diameter 40 mm; water resistance 20 ATM (200 m); sapphire crystal to the front and solid case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds; date
- Movement: Calibre 5; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Stainless steel 3-rows bracelet with steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons
- Price: £2,500 (RRP as of 16.10.2023)