NOMOS Ahoi neomatik sky and sand
NOMOS Ahoi neomatik is available in two new dial colours – sky and sand. Water-resistant to 200 metres, this model proves highly versatile. It’s ideally suited to those individuals who enjoy an active lifestyle but also complements formal attire. Indeed, as Angus Davies explains, whether swimming in the sea or attending a sophisticated soirée, this watch proves a great all-rounder.
NOMOS – the horological third way
In life, we often have to choose between style or practicality. For instance, sartorially astute gentlemen may yearn to don a pale linen jacket, but then, noting dark clouds on the horizon, opt for a functional anorak. Similarly, ladies seeking to make a good impression may decide to wear a pair of court shoes in preference to a comfortable ‘pair of flats’ only to regret it later as the end of the day nears.
Likewise, the world of horology is not immune to compromise. A dress watch might befit a black tie ensemble but will undoubtedly prove unsuitable when plunging into the deep end of the local municipal baths.
Should the wearer be even more adventurous, wishing to explore oceans deep, then underwater readability and a watertight case are essential. But watches for subaquatic use tend to be large and bulky, traits at odds with the notion of elegance and versatility.
However, NOMOS Glashütte has recently released two new versions of a model that provides a horological third way where practicality and elegance happily co-exist. Allow me to elaborate.
NOMOS Ahoi neomatik sky and sand – a versatile case
Ahoi neomatik measures a mere 36.3 mm in diameter, making it suitable for both male and female wrists. With a height of 9.1 mm, a modest thickness akin to a dress watch, the NOMOS comfortably snuggles the wrist. Yet despite being neat, it is not afraid of getting its hair wet. Indeed, with a water resistance of 200 metres, this model proves suitable for diving.
A versatile watch, NOMOS Ahoi neomatik is not only ideal for active wearers but also looks at ease at a sophisticated cocktail party, wonderfully complementing formal attire. Prospective purchasers can specify the model with a colour-coordinating textile strap or a sporty steel bracelet.
NOMOS devotees may already be familiar with the Ahoi model. The Sachsen brand offers a larger version of the watch, Ahoi neomatik 38 date, measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and endowed with a date display (I reviewed the model back in 2023). By eschewing a date display, NOMOS has been able to reduce the diameter of Ahoi neomatik by 2.2 mm and the thickness by 0.8 mm (for those models with a sapphire crystal back). On paper, this may not sound much, but for those individuals who prefer compact dimensions, such reductions are significant.
The case is presented in highly polished steel and yet despite its gleaming appearance, it exudes tasteful restraint and notable elegance. The lugs and bezel are slim but functional, while the screw-down crown nestles within a crown guard, shielding the winding stem from harm without diminishing the genteel character of the watch. It is this nuanced blend of contrasting qualities that serves to enrich the overall ownership experience.
NOMOS Ahoi neomatik sky and sand – dial
Underwater readability is an essential requirement of a divers’ watch, hence brands frequently apply luminescent coatings to various dial elements. In this instance, NOMOS has applied white Super-LumiNova to the hands and hour markers, augmenting legibility in dim light conditions.
The go-to dial colours for many watch brands are black, white and orange. However, never a brand to follow the pack, the German marque has chosen to offer its latest Ahoi neomatik in two distinctive hues, namely ‘sky’ and ‘sand’. Both colours promise ease of read-off while also delivering an abundance of style.
The hours and minutes are indicated with rhodium-plated hands, lined with said white Super-LumiNova. Following in the footsteps of the brand’s iconic Tangente model, the hours are denoted with a combination of Arabic numerals for even-values and fine strokes for odd-values. In addition, the hour markers are complemented with white luminescent rectangles. Look more closely at said rectangles and you will note that each is fringed with a fine black outline, echoing the crisp lines positioned in between. This judicious use of lines and shapes surpasses the merely functional, granting a sense of sophistication.
A recessed small seconds dial is positioned above 6 o’clock. Endowed with a snailed finish (aka ‘azurage’), the indication incorporates a crisp track featuring Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, topped off with a bold, orange small seconds hand.
NOMOS Ahoi neomatik sky and sand – Caliber DUW 3001
Released in 2015, Caliber DUW 3001, an in-house automatic movement, features in several NOMOS models. The product of three years of research and development, it serves to demonstrate the company’s extraordinary capacity for making wonderfully engineered movements, enriched with refined touches.
I have previously talked extensively about this movement in an in-depth feature (comprising Part One and Part Two) but for those readers who are time-poor, I have detailed some of its attributes below:
Svelte proportions
Caliber DUW 3001 measures 28.8 mm in diameter and a mere 3.2 mm in thickness; a remarkably svelte profile for an automatic movement. When an oscillating mass is placed atop bridges or a three-quarter plate, it tends to increase depth. With the Caliber DUW 3001, NOMOS has cleverly placed the bulkiest part of the oscillating weight in a channel (aka ‘trottoir’) encircling the three-quarter plate, mitigating height.
Impressive gear train efficiency
Typically, with most watches, about 80 – 85% of the power from the spring barrel (effectively the fuel tank of the watch) reaches the escapement (where the power is needed). NOMOS, working with the Technical University of Dresden, did extensive work on improving the gear train efficiency, achieving a figure of 94.2%. By improving the efficiency, the German brand was able to reduce the size of the mainspring, making the movement slimmer without diminishing the power reserve (up to 43 hours).
Swing system
While most watch brands procure the escapement and regulating organ from specialist suppliers, NOMOS, keen to assert its independence, developed its own ‘swing system’ (escapement and regulating organ). The brand devoted 7 years to realise its ambition, investing €11 M along the way.
Functionality, quality and durability
Upholding the principles of the Deutscher Werkbund (I discussed this recently in my feature on NOMOS gold watches), the German marque has always sought to create products that deliver functionality, quality and durability. It has achieved this by standardising the production of its watches, realising economies of scale and thereby democratising luxury watchmaking. These attributes are clearly manifest with Caliber DUW 3001.
Stability
A watch movement usually comprises a mainplate (the chassis of the movement) with bridges on top and moving parts sandwiched in between. Unlike many Swiss watches that employ multiple bridges, NOMOS prefers to use a three-quarter plate – a traditional hallmark of Glashütte watchmaking. This means of construction proves more stable, albeit it does require watchmakers to spend more time making fine adjustments to ensure the end shake (the up-down movement of a component between upper and lower jewels) is perfect. The result is a movement that promises to be robust, making it ideal for daily wear.
On some watches, the balance is secured with a balance cock (held with one screw); however, the balance on Caliber DUW 3001 is supported with a bridge secured at two points, once again enhancing stability.
Finishing
The movement features a series of no-compromise finishes, including perlage, Glashütte ribbing and thermally blued screws, all visible via the sapphire crystal glass back.
Closing remarks
It is often said you can’t be ‘all things to all people’; however, when it comes to watches, NOMOS has created a model that is suitable for both men and women. Moreover, it has demonstrated that style and practicality do not need to be mutually exclusive. Indeed, while Ahoi neomatik is considered a tool watch, both sporty and robust, it is also elegant, versatile and sophisticated. Quite simply, this is not an everyday watch, but rather an impressive timepiece you could easily wear every day and for any occasion.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Ahoi neomatik
- Reference: sky (Ref 568) – sapphire crystal back
- Reference: sky (Ref 568.SB) – stainless steel back
- Reference: sand (Ref 569) – sapphire crystal back
- Reference: sand (Ref 569.SB) – stainless steel back
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 36.3 mm, height 9.1 mm; water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres); sapphire crystal.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, stop seconds function
- Movement: Caliber DUW3001; self-winding movement; 37 jewels; power reserve up to 43 hours
- Strap: woven textile strap or sport bracelet
- Price: textile strap – £3,560 (stainless steel back £3,260 RRP as of 3.9.2026)
- Price: sport bracelet – £3,840 (stainless steel back £3,540, RRP as of 3.9.2026)
Images – copyright: NOMOS Glashütte