Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Watch Review
The Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon was unveiled a few weeks ago in Geneva. It serves to reinforce the brand’s reputation for simultaneously delivering quality and value. On this occasion, the Grenchen-based brand worked closely with the hugely talented Jean-François Mojon to create a highly desirable hand-wound movement.
Geneva Watch Days 2020
Back in 2020, when COVID-19 was impacting everyone’s life, uncertainty was widespread. Indeed, the watch industry was not immune to the effects of the pandemic, with the main trade show, Baselworld, being cancelled that year. Amidst the widespread despair, a group of watch brands came together and announced that they would host a new show, open to both the public and the trade. True to their word, the planned event went ahead and the inaugural Geneva Watch Days ran from 26 August to 29 August 2020. Ever since, the trade fair has been a regular fixture on the watch industry’s calendar, attracting press, retailers and watch collectors alike. While I enjoy attending Watches & Wonders each year, I also appreciate the informality of Geneva Watch Days.
Image – Patrik Hoffmann
The revival of Favre Leuba (2024)
Last year, the ‘revival’ of Favre Leuba was one of the highlights of Geneva Watch Days. The history of the Swiss brand dates back to 1737 and is punctuated with many achievements. The revived brand company, led by Patrik Hoffmann, a veteran of the watch industry, began by unveiling three collections on 29 August 2024. It’s rare to launch such a high quotient of newness in one day, but that’s exactly what the Grenchen-based company did.
At the time, I reported on this new chapter in the company’s history and a few weeks later I got hands-on with the Sea Sky Revival, a vintage-inspired chronograph that offers much for comparatively little. Indeed, I recall appraising each reference between forefinger and thumb and being struck by the impressive quotient of quality and value.
Image – Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival
Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon – released on 30 March 2025
Having created three collections and numerous references, I would have expected the brand to sit back a little, imploring all members of staff to ‘catch their breath’; not a bit of it. Just seven months after its relaunch at Geneva Watch Days, the Maison unveiled the Chief Tourbillon. Once again reminding the press and watch aficionados of its extraordinary ambition and impressive work rate.
Interestingly, Favre Leuba chose to make its inaugural high complication model in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon and his firm, Chronode. To provide some context, Mojon’s skill at the bench could be likened to that of Messi on a football pitch. Indeed, Mojon’s curriculum vitae makes for impressive reading. Over the years, he has conceived movements for a multitude of brands, including Czapek, Hermès and MB&F.
While I am well-practiced in writing about tourbillons, I have come to accept that they are usually priced beyond my reach. However, with an asking price of CHF 24,800, Favre Leuba has made tourbillon ownership more accessible to a wider audience. A few months ago, I had the opportunity to view the Chief Tourbillon up close and affix it to my hirsute arm. Hereafter, I share some of my observations.
Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon – dial
Surprisingly for a watch with a tourbillon at the base of its dial, the first aspect that you notice on this model is the intricate hourglass motif adorning the display. Inspired by the company’s logo, it is composed of numerous triangles, some in relief, others recessed, some matte and others circular sunray brushed. The resultant vista of three-sided shapes wonderfully engages with light, with the small recesses bestowing tiny pockets of darkness.
Silver-toned hour and minute hands work in concert with plump applied batons to express meaning. Both the hands and indexes are lined with Super-LumiNova, aiding readability in restricted light conditions and imbuing the watch with a sporty mien. The dial is framed with a flange, marked with a minute track, aiding readability.
A large aperture located at 6 o’clock plays host to the tourbillon. I’ll return to this mechanism later, but at this stage I wish to point out that it features a flame-blued small hand, sitting atop the tourbillon cage, indicating the running seconds. The tourbillon bridge is endowed with a horizontal brushed finish, while the seconds track, framing the aperture, is enlivened with a circular grained finish.
Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon – case
Endowed with a circular dial and a cushion-shaped case, the marriage of contrasting shapes proffers interest and notable eye-appeal. Close examination of the case also reveals a fascinating marriage of lines and curves that enrich the overall aesthetic. A simpler design would have proved cheaper, but Favre Leuba has chosen to incur additional cost, culminating in a very refined and harmonious aesthetic.
Brushed surfaces abound, save for the caseband which features highly polished recesses that introduce a tasteful soupçon of gleam. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and fitted with an integrated bracelet, the design and dimensions of the Chief Tourbillon should suit the majority of wrists. Personally, I found the case and bracelet ensemble conferred a very agreeable fit.
In terms of the bracelet, it is predominantly brushed but features a central row of highly polished links. The steel bracelet is fitted with a folding clasp, but the watch is also supplied with a rubber strap that secures to the wrist with a pin buckle.
Favre Leuba FL T01 movement (base: Chronode C502)
What is a tourbillon?
In the interests of completeness before exploring the FL T01 movement in detail, I will begin by explaining the purpose of a tourbillon. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) recognised that gravity has an adverse influence on the behaviour of the regulating organ within a pocket watch. His inspired idea was to place the escapement and regulating organ in a cage that rotated 360° every 60, 240 or 360 seconds, ameliorating the effects of gravity on the rate of the watch. Breguet patented this invention in 1801.
Today, there are several reasons for selecting a wristwatch endued with a tourbillon, such as precision and the inordinate amount of skill required to bring a tourbillon to life. Personally, I adore the animated spectacle of seeing a tourbillon at work. Indeed, it is a joy to witness the balance spring pulse with life, the balance wheel oscillating back and forth, the pallet wheel kissing the escape wheel and the cage hypnotically rotating.
The specification of the Favre Leuba FL T01 movement
Most watch movements feature an index (raquette) where altering the effective length of the balance spring adjusts the rate. However, the Favre Leuba FL T01 movement is equipped with a variable inertia balance. With this form of regulation, the length of the balance spring is fixed and the rate is altered by adjusting timing screws set within the rim of the balance wheel. This latter approach provides a more precise means of setting the rate and should the watch be subjected to a shock it is less likely to require remedial regulation.
Fitted with one barrel, the hand-wound FL T01 movement will run autonomously for up to 60 hours. The finishing juxtaposes traditional Côtes de Genève with a contemporary anthracite finish. The ratchet wheel features the brand’s hourglass emblem and the appearance of the bridges is enriched with gleaming bevels. Likewise, the tourbillon cage is brushed on its upper surface while its edges are polished. The verso view of the movement, visible via the exhibition caseback, is punctuated with a myriad of heat-blued screws.
Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon – closing remarks
With the advent of the Chief Tourbillon, Favre Leuba has democratised tourbillon ownership, making the coveted high complication accessible to more people. It’s not the cheapest tourbillon on the market, but the palpable quality of the materials, design and construction make the Chief Tourbillon particularly impressive. Don’t misconstrue, the finishing of this watch is not comparable with that of a six-figure timepiece bearing the Poinçon de Genève and it would be disingenuous of me to imply this. However, considering the asking price, there can be no argument about the quality and value on offer.
With regard to the hourglass dial, Favre Leuba has delivered a unique horological vista that is both courageous and interesting. With its blend of depths and finishes, it’s a wonderfully considered design and serves to reaffirm the overall sense of quality.
This year, Geneva Watch Days runs from 4 September 2025 to 7 September 2025. With the pop-up Pavilion housing numerous exhibits and nearby hotels hosting many brands, with glorious views of the Jet d’Eau available on tap, this year’s event promises to be fabulous. Based on its penchant for creating new timepieces, I predict that Favre Leuba, on its return to Geneva, will deliver another impressive instalment of quality and value for the delectation of horophiles.
Further information
https://www.favreleuba.com/?___store=gb
Technical specification
- Model: Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 41 mm, height 11.45 mm, sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback, water resistant to 10 ATM (100 metres)
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon cage
- Movement: FL T01 (based on Chronode C502), hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600vph (3 Hz), 23 jewels, 60-hour power reserve
- Strap: Interchangeable; integrated brushed & polished steel bracelet with double-link construction and folding clasp; supplied with an additional black rubber strap with Favre Leuba pin buckle
- Price: €24,800 (RRP as of 30.5.2025)
- Limited Edition: 25 pieces