Grand Seiko Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewellery Watch SBGD207
The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewellery Watch SBGD207 is housed in a generously proportioned platinum case, enriched with 97 diamonds and 24 garnets. Angus Davies looks back over recent years at the company’s other gem-set models and shares his thoughts about the brand’s potential for making Haute Joaillerie timepieces.
At Baselworld 2018, Grand Seiko released an array of mouthwatering horological delicacies. After the event, a lovely chap that I knew from Seiko’s headquarters asked if I would agree to do an interview with Japanese television and answer a few questions. Having seen the company’s new models, the representative from the television company enquired which of the Grand Seiko novelties was my favourite. I noted their surprise when I stated my favourite new release was in fact a ladies’ model, the Automatic for women, calibre 9S 20th anniversary limited edition STGK00J. Even now, I still believe my stated favourite was the highlight of Grand Seiko’s 2018 collection.
Image – escape wheel featuring a five-petal flower design
Grand Seiko released its first ladies’ watch in 1968, the 19GS. It was endowed with a ’10-beat’ movement (36,000 vph/5Hz). However, the STGK00J was the first Grand Seiko ladies’ model I had seen in the flesh. Housed in a 28.7mm 18-carat rose gold case, the diminutive model brimmed with femininity. Its silver lamé dial emulated the appearance of snow and the bezel was embellished with 37 diamonds with an additional diamond set in the crown. The self-winding Calibre 9S25 was beautifully appointed and even included an escape wheel featuring a five-petal flower design. It was a remarkable watch, but sadly I never saw the model again, probably owing to its scarcity. Nevertheless, this watch immediately demonstrated that Grand Seiko had the capacity to make gem-set watches worthy of comparison with Switzerland’s finest.
Image – Grand Seiko STGK013
In 2019, Grand Seiko released two Elegance models housed in tonneau-shaped cases as well as five new ladies’ models housed in a round case. This latter quintet included a model which closely resembled the STGK00J of 2018, the STGK006. Again, the model was housed in a 28.7mm rose gold case, albeit this time it was adorned with 55 diamonds. Grand Seiko’s gem-setting expertise was clear to see.
Image – Grand Seiko STGK006
Last year, the Japanese marque released the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewellery Watch SBGD205. Housed in a 43mm platinum case, the timepiece was ideally sized for a male wrist and yet it was suffused with 96 diamonds and 25 blue sapphires. Inspired by the ‘winter mornings in Shinshu’, its design polarised opinion.
Image – Grand Seiko SBGD205
This year, the luxury firm has returned with another Haute Joaillerie creation, the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewellery Watch SBGD207. Consistent with many of its creations, the Japanese Maison looked to nature for inspiration, in this instance Mishaka Pond where the coniferous landscape is reflected upon crystal clear waters. Bearing a close resemblance to the 2020 model, the SBGD205, this watch features a 43mm platinum case, 97 diamonds and 24 garnets. By virtue of its costly composition, this latest model will appeal to only a small audience, albeit I doubt the brand will struggle to sell all 15 examples.
Image – Grand Seiko SBGD207
A few years ago, Grand Seiko was known to a limited number of potential buyers who were well-informed about the brand’s products and their impressive details such as highly legible dials, Zaratsu polished cases and beautifully engineered movements. However, the secret is well and truly out and an increasing number of consumers are crossing the threshold of their local Grand Seiko stockist. Put simply, an increasing number of watch buyers recognise the excellence of Grand Seiko’s models.
Nevertheless, Grand Seiko has not lifted off the gas. Indeed, it repeatedly pushes the performance envelope with new, highly specified movements such as the recently launched Calibre 9SA5. It is my belief that this latter movement signals the firm’s intention to move further upmarket and provide a viable alternative to Switzerland’s Haute Horlogerie Manufactures.
Just in the same way the brand’s watchmaking prowess is now familiar to legions of watch aficionados and horophiles, I suspect its capacity to make gem-set watches will become known to the cognoscenti. Indeed, the way Grand Seiko has used precious stones and, in particular, flawlessly set baguette diamonds, it won’t be too long before the firm becomes known for Haute Joaillerie timepieces as well.
The brand’s press release
In 2020, Grand Seiko released its first jewellery masterpiece, a platinum cased Spring Drive watch whose design took inspiration from the winter mornings in the Shinshu region which is home to the Micro Artist Studio where the watch was created. Now Grand Seiko has chosen another unique aspect of the studio’s stunning and varied natural surroundings as the motif of another jewellery watch to celebrate the 140th anniversary of the company’s establishment.
Mishaka Pond, where infinite shades of green are reflected in clear, still water. Mishaka Pond is hidden away in the forest to the east of Lake Suwa not far from Shiojiri where the Micro Artist Studio is located. Its pristine, crystal clear water acts as the perfect reflector of the trees that grow right to the water’s edge and their myriad shades of green. It is a stunning sight, especially in high summer when a quiet serenity seems to embrace and enchant every visitor, including the painter Kaji Higashiyama whose celebrated 1982 work “Vibrant Green” perfectly depicts the pond’s verdant beauty.
With its green mother-of-pearl dial and the green garnet indexes, this new Spring Drive timepiece presents the passage of time with a calm grace that captures exactly the atmosphere of Mishaka Pond. To see the glide motion seconds hand move silently and continuously across the sumptuous dial is to experience the nature of time in a new, unique and profound way.
The carefully selected green garnets and tapered baguette diamonds that accompany them act as minute and hour markers. They are set into an 18k white gold base and are separated by 48 additional diamonds and 12 garnets that are individually set around the markers to further enhance the depth and beauty of the dial. The arrangement of the gems side by side around the entire dial requires a craftsman’s dexterity; the gems are set between a very thin pair of rails with great precision by the most skilled of the jewellery craftsmen and women in the Shinshu Watch Studio which shares the Shiojiri facility with the Micro Artist Studio. The gems are placed exactly horizontally so that they catch the light evenly. The garnet at twelve o’clock is slightly wider than the rest to ensure the perfect legibility of the time.
The watch is powered by the Spring Drive 8 day Caliber 9R01 that delivers an accuracy rate of ±10 seconds a month and offers a power reserve of 192 hours when fully wound. Calibre 9R01 incorporates three barrels arranged in sequence to deliver the extended power reserve which is shown by an indicator visible through the sapphire case back along with the exquisite finishing of the one-piece bridge, designed in the image of Mt. Fuji, and the rubies, which evoke the lights of Suwa City below Shiojiri.
The case is made of Platinum 950 and is finished with a form of Zaratsu polishing that is specially adapted for platinum and makes possible the distortion-free surfaces and sharp ridges that are an intrinsic part of the Grand Seiko aesthetic.
This Grand Seiko masterpiece is offered in a limited edition of 15 and will be available in the Grand Seiko Boutiques in May 2021.
Further reading
https://www.grandseikoboutique.uk/