NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date Watch Review
The NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date was recently unveiled at an event hosted at the brand’s headquarters in the picturesque Ore Mountains. It bears a strong resemblance to the Tangente neomatik 41 Update, a GPHG prize-winner (2018), although close examination reveals several notable differences. Angus Davies, a self-confessed NOMOS fan, recently spent some time with the new hand-wound watch, the Reference 135.SB.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
NOMOS Glashütte Alpha Caliber (2005)
NOMOS Glashütte unveiled its first in-house movement, the Alpha Caliber, back in 2005. At the time it was unusual for a watch company to make its own movements with most brands choosing to procure calibers from ETA, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group. For a comparatively small company, the Alpha Caliber represented a huge achievement and signalled to the watch collecting community that NOMOS yearned to be less reliant on the Swiss watch industry.
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Alpha Caliber
Swing System and Caliber DUW 3001
Buoyed by success, the German marque continued developing new movements and in 2014, the firm even unveiled its own ‘Swing System’, NOMOS vernacular for the escapement and regulating organ (see my in-depth feature on the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente for more details). One year later, NOMOS released the Caliber DUW 3001, an automatic movement with a slender profile, measuring just 3.2 mm in height (see my in-depth feature on the Caliber DUW 3001).
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Caliber DUW 3001
Caliber DUW 6101
In 2018, NOMOS released a new automatic movement, the Caliber DUW 6101. Again, svelteness was the order of the day (3.6 mm thickness), but this ticking sculpture also came with the added functionality of a date display. This may sound a simple feature and some may say a tad mundane; however, the design and execution of the indication as well as the specification of the Caliber DUW 6101 justified many column inches within the watch press.
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Caliber DUW 6101
The Saxony-based brand has always been known for making clear, simple to read dials. With the advent of this movement, NOMOS cleverly pushed the date ring to the outside edge of the movement, allowing it to present the date in extra-large, even grandma can read them, numerals.
With most conventional automatic watches, the bulkiest and heaviest part of the oscillating mass is at the edge. With the Caliber DUW 6101, the edge of the oscillating mass runs in a ‘trottoir’, a channel beyond the three-quarter plate and bridges. This architectural approach helped mitigate movement thickness. And yet, whilst this movement is über-svelte, it is packed with refinements. For example, it is endowed with a quick-set date that functions both forwards and backwards. Moreover, if you hold a loupe to your eye and survey this movement at close quarters, you will discover a mechanical vista comprising Glashütte ribbing, thermally blued screws, perlage and embossed gold-plated engravings.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente neomatik 41 Update (Reference 180)
Back in 2018, NOMOS equipped several new models with the Caliber DUW 6101 but one particular watch stood out, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update (Reference 180). Blessed with a pure white dial, the watch subscribed to the beloved Tangente-style, save for the addition of a rather unusual date indication.
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente neomatik 41 Update (Reference 180)
Thirty-one lozenge-shaped apertures fringe the dial. Beneath these apertures sits a disc, marked with a small area in red that appears to the wearer as two rectangular sections, straddling the prevailing date. It’s a simple idea, but quite often the best ideas are simple.
Elegant, functional and packed with mechanical virtue, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update attracted favorable comments in the watch press. It also scooped a Green Good Design Award, IF Design Award and European Product Design Award. Moreover, the model was not merely an exemplar of great design, its brilliance as a watch was also recognised by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2018 when the Tangente neomatik 41 Update received the ‘Challenge Watch Prize’.
I have worn this watch over an extended period and it continues to feature on my ‘own before I die’ list.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date Reference 135.SB – introduction
Recently, NOMOS unveiled a new model, the Tangente 2date. At first glance, the watch looks identical to its older sibling, the neomatik 41 Update Reference 180; however, look again and you will begin to spot a few subtle differences. Allow me to elaborate.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date – dial
The hour and minute hands remain fine, but where the hands fitted to the neomatik 41 Update (Reference 180) are ‘oxidised black’ those fitted to the 2date are rhodium plated, evincing a silver hue. This colour change also extends to the hand gracing the small seconds display located in the southern region of the dial.
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
NOMOS devotees will recognise the familiar interplay of elongated batons and numerals encircling the dial, denoting the hours. Likewise, the aforementioned small seconds display, residing in the lower half of the dial, is once again recessed and snailed. And the red date markers, visible via lozenge-shaped apertures, make a welcome return. Everything seems reassuringly familiar.
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
However, look again, there is another date indication at 6 o’clock. A small window, slightly trapezoidal in form. It presents the prevailing date in a cheery shade of red, set against a white backdrop. That’s two date displays on one dial which some would argue is a tad ‘belt and braces’, but if like me you’re a forgetful soul, then you can’t have too many reminders. Objectively, the 2date concept seems unnecessary, but the same argument could be levelled at many luxury products. From a personal perspective, I find the notion of the 2date to be fun and slightly humorous in a world that seems all too serious.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date – case
Appraising the specification sheet for the Tangente 2date reveals that it measures just 37.5 mm in diameter with a height of 6.7 mm. Certainly, the watch looks smaller than the Reference 180 (40.5 mm diameter, 7.8 mm height); however, the 2date doesn’t look as small as its stated dimensions suggest. This is a trait common to other Tangente models and can be attributed to the long, angular lugs. Measuring the 2date lug-to-lug, it comes in at 47.7 mm, only 1.6 mm less than the Reference 180 (49.3 mm). Moreover, despite my wrist measuring 19 cm in circumference, the 2date looked at ease on my manly arm.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
The bipartite case is formed of stainless steel and is highly polished throughout. With some watches this ubiquitous gleaming can feel a tad excessive, but rest assured this NOMOS remains a paragon of elegant restraint. To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the movement.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
NOMOS Glashütte Caliber DUW 4601
Similar to trainspotters, there is a band of likeminded horophiles who love to recite movement numbers and when it comes to NOMOS, they have plenty of references to remember. Since releasing the Alpha Caliber in 2005, the brand from Glashütte has been prolific, creating several wonderfully engineered movements for the delectation of horophiles around the globe. And before you accuse me of excessive hyperbole, I wish to take you back a little bit.
* Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date (Reference 135.SB)
When creating the Caliber DUW 3001, the German marque worked closely with Technical University of Dresden, seeking to improve the efficiency of the gear train. With most watches, about 80% of the energy from the barrel reaches the escapement. By looking closely at each wheel, analysing the order, angle and number of teeth, NOMOS was able to increase the gear train efficiency to 94.2%. This uplift in efficiency allowed the brand to use a smaller mainspring while still delivering a decent power reserve of 43 hours. The culmination of this extensive research was a highly precise movement with a slender profile (3.2 mm).
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date (Reference 135.SB)
I could list many more examples of NOMOS expending much time on R&D that have conferred product advancement; however, I would be here all day. Safe to say, the brand’s prowess in engineering is highly impressive.
Returning to the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date, it features a new movement, the Caliber DUW 4601. Unlike the Calber DUW 6101 in the Reference 180, this latest movement is hand-wound, a characteristic that helps reduce thickness (2.8 mm height).
Once again, the Caliber DUW 4601 is equipped with the NOMOS swing system and when fully wound, it has a power-reserve of 52 hours. But it’s the finishing of this NOMOS movement that impresses me the most. The three-quarter plate, date ring and skeletonised balance cock are adorned with ‘fine sunbeam ribbing’. This is a departure from the brand’s customary straight Glashütte ribbing and resembles Côtes de Genève rayonnantes found on some Swiss watches. Personally, I find this form of decoration very attractive. However, it doesn’t end there. The movement is endowed with additional forms of finishing, including perlage on the mainplate, golden engravings, sunburst motif on the ratchet wheel and thermally blued screws. It is fair to say that this level of finishing would not look out of place on a watch costing three times as much.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date (Reference 135.SB)
NOMOS Glashütte has gained a reputation for creating products that deliver a high quality-price ratio and the advent of the 2date merely serves to perpetuate this reputation. At the time of writing, the model retails for £2,360 (RRP as of 6.2.2025), a comparatively modest sum for a watch equipped with a movement of this quality.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date – closing remarks
Having worn the Tangente 2date for several days, I feel I have come to understand its many characteristics. The watch is slim, relatively light and comfortable to wear. I found it very easy to ascertain the prevailing hours and minutes with a mere glance.
So far, so good. Despite being shortsighted, I seldom wear my spectacles. It’s due to both absentmindedness and misplaced vanity. When wearing spectacles, I could readily see the lozenge-shaped date apertures, but without them I sometimes struggled. I do not recall this being an issue with the Reference 180 and suspect its larger dial was the main reason for its superior readability. It is for this reason that the Reference 180 remains firmly on the ‘own before I die’ list rather than the 2date. However, if you have normal eyesight or you’re a diligent spectacle wearer then you will be happy with the 2date’s lozenge-shaped apertures.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
Where I do favour the 2date is with the addition of that extra date display. It is arguably unnecessary, but that’s part of the charm. Indeed, I would invite NOMOS to take a bow for making me smile.
Case dimensions are the subject of fierce debate. When perusing a website, I would probably dismiss the 2date as too small for my leviathan physique, but when affixed to my wrist the watch looked at home (see the pictures if you don’t believe me). Based on my experience of wearing other Tangente models, they always wear larger than the stated dimensions.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date ( Reference 135.SB)
But any discussions about NOMOS invariably turn to its in-house movements and the Caliber DUW 4601 is a beauty. It’s slim, has a useful power-reserve and is exquisitely finished. Simpler than an automatic movement, the Caliber DUW 4601 is less expensive to produce than the Caliber DUW 6101, allowing the German brand to offer a cheaper alternative to the Reference 180.
With the advent of the Tangente 2date, NOMOS has delivered extra choice. However, whether it’s two dates, one date or no date, whatever Tangente you choose, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.
* Images marked with an asterisk – copyright: NOMOS Glashütte
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 2date
- Reference: 135.SB
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 37.5 mm, height 6.7 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 meters), sapphire crystals to front and caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, 2 date indications
- Movement: Caliber DUW 4601, hand-wound movement, 23 jewels, power reserve 52 hours
- Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black strap with pin buckle
- Price: £2,360 (RRP as of 6.2.2025)