Best Watches For Men (Haute Horlogerie)
There are several types of watch available, each designed to sate the needs of today’s male wearer. These include divers’ watches, pilots’ watches, chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, tourbillons, etc. Each of these horological genres have unique characteristics that make them ideal for a specific task, eg a helium valve.
On this occasion, we have selected watches that deliver accomplished design, chronometric performance, fine materials and sublime finishing.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC
While this is not the most expensive Ferdinand Berthoud model, it is certainly my favourite.
- Technically interesting – the only COSC-certified chronometer with a cylindrical hairspring
- Superb hand-finished movement
- Very wearable 42.3 mm diameter
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph
A beautifully finished hand-wound chronograph.
- Poinçon de Genève hallmark and COSC-certified chronometer
- Column-wheel and vertical coupling. Variner balance (variable-inertia balance)
- A stunning dial with a superbly finished movement
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum Blue
Unlike a ‘regular’ tourbillon, a flying tourbillon.
- Not just a ‘regular’ tourbillon – a ‘flying’ tourbillon
- The platinum case looks and feels gorgeous
- Exemplary finishing.
Nice Watches For Men Costing Less Than £10K
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Venturer 38 mm
Maurice Lacroix, based in the Franches-Montagnes, has gained a reputation for making impressive watches that deliver a high-quality price ratio.
- Ceramic bezel insert that is scratch-resistant and won’t fade
- Superb wearer comfort courtesy of integrated bracelet
- ‘Easy Strap Exchange system’ allows the wearer to easily change the look of their watch without the need for tools
La Petite Seconde Metropolis Louis Erard x The Horophile Salmon
Louis Erard has democratised luxury with its wonderfully styled watches, often produced in collaboration with others.
- Art deco inspired numerals and hands and exquisite salmon dial
- 39mm case diameter should suit most would-be wearers
- Great value for money
NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue
NOMOS Glashütte, a German marque based in Saxony, produces its own, highly impressive movements and has gained a reputation for making Bauhaus-inspired watches that represent exceptional value for money.
- The highly precise, Caliber DUW6101 is beautifully executed
- The date display is notably large making it very legible
- A wonderfully handsome watch
Best Luxury Watches For Men Costing Less Than £25K
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Black Edition
Independent watch brand Armin Strom demonstrates that small can be beautiful. Based in Biel/Bienne, this Manufacture makes highly-refined in-house movements worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’.
- Haute Horlogerie at a comparatively keen price
- Features a motor barrel, delivering high-efficiency (100 hour power reserve)
- This very original design is beautiful to behold and unusually shows its barrel front of house
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 mm
The Swiss Manufacture has a rich history of making fine watches dating back to 1791. The inaugural Laureato was released in 1975, powered by a quartz movement, considered cutting-edge technology at the time. Over the years, the Laureato collection has expanded. The Maison has released numerous mechanical versions of its sporty-elegant timepiece and has embraced various case materials, colours and complications.
- A masterful play with different forms eg an octagonal bezel sits upon a circular plinth positioned atop a tonneau-shaped case
- A sumptuous green dial enriched with Clous de Paris decoration
- A highly versatile watch that complements both casual attire as well as formal wear.
Breguet Type 20 (military specification)
Breguet is one of the most illustrious Maisons in existence. The brand has a rich history of making various genres of watches, including pilots’ watches. The Breguet Type 20 (military specification) timepiece and its sibling, the Type XX (civilian specification) watch can trace their origins to 1949 when the French Ministry of Defence procured its first Breguet watch.
- High frequency movement (5 Hz) with variable-inertia balance, column-wheel and vertical coupling
- Beautifully-finished movement
- Exquisite dial and superb case execution
Stylish Watches For Men
DuBois et fils DBF008-02
DuBois et fils cleverly pair period movements with modern-day dials and cases. Produced in Switzerland with a strong emphasis on sourcing components locally, the quality of these watches is very impressive.
- Housed in a 39 mm case, the size of the DuBois et fils DBF008 should suit most wrists
- The Calibre AS-1985 movement from the 1960s
- Beautifully executed dial and case
- Exclusivity – only small numbers of watches produced
- The bewitching blue tones of the DBF008-02 makes this my favourite model
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier EON Gold
A contemporary watch that fuses traditional craftsmanship with modern materials.
- Haute Horlogerie with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève on the case and movement
- The openworked dial/movement is spectacular, while the display proves eminently legible
- Micro-rotor
- Case formed of EON Gold – 18ct gold that is less likely to tarnishing
- Variable-inertia balance and a silicium escape wheel
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date
Produced in Saxony, Germany, this divers’ watch brims with refinement. It looks stylish with a lounge suit or jeans and its prepossessing looks promise an enduring allure.
- The large format Panorama Date – exclusive to Glashütte Original
- Ceramic bezel insert – scratch resistant and not liable to fading
- Beautiful green dial and bezel
- Beautifully-finished movement, featuring a three-quarter plate
- Very practical with 300 M water resistance and robust case construction
Popular Watches For Men
TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph 39 mm steel
TAG Heuer (formerly Heuer) has a rich history of making chronographs. In 1963, the firm released the inaugural Carrera chronograph and it has since become an ‘icon’. Over the years, the watch has been updated on a number of occasions; however, this version, released in 2013, is my favourite to date.
- Glass box sapphire crystal
- Beautifully proportioned
- The blue dial version is particularly attractive
- The dial is rich in detail – I especially love the positioning of the tachymeter scale
- Calibre TH20-00 – vertical coupling, column-wheel and 80 hour power-reserve
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat ‘White Birch’ SLGH005
Grand Seiko is known for making superb movements. Moreover, its mastery of dials and cases is legendary. This watch perfectly encapsulates the brand’s extraordinary craftsmanship and notable expertise.
- Wonderfully textured white birch dial
- The case is endowed with contrasting polished and hairline brushed finishing
- The Calibre 9SA5 movement has a 5Hz frequency and a power-reserve of 80 hours
- Dual-impulse escapement and variable-inertia balance with overcoil
- Beautifully finished automatic movement
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton
TAG Heuer is very unusual in that it has two iconic models in its product portfolio. The Monaco burst on to the watch scene in 1969 and continues to look very different from any other watch on the market.
- Iconic water-resistant square case (a groundbreaking feature in 1969)
- The skeleton dial which wonderfully reveals the date disc
- Twin counter design confers a symmetrical and harmonious look
- Titanium case – light and hypoallergenic
- Calibre Heuer 02 – vertical coupling, column-wheel and 80 hour power-reserve
